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1998 Alvear Fino ‘En Rama’ Montilla Moriles

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Fino Sherries are delightful, yet they’re pretty much unknown in this country. They’re delicious as an aperitif, with a bowl of olives and toasted almonds, or they can carry themselves well with shellfish, especially grilled shrimp or prawns.

This fino, from a house founded in 1729, has that wonderful oily quality of finos that makes it a good match for seafood. Pale gold with greenish highlights, it has a fresh snap of acidity and tastes as if it picked up just a hint of salt from the sea breeze. And in case you’re wondering, en rama means it’s unblended and unfiltered.

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Region: Andalucia, Spain.

Price: About $8 for a 500-milliliter bottle.

Style: Bone-dry single vintage fino Sherry.

Food it goes with: Shellfish, tapas, olives and almonds, and with bold Mediterranean flavors.

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Where you find it: Beverage Warehouse in Marina del Rey, (310) 306-2822; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; and Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454.

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