By all means, wine and dine

New Zealand is a new region for Pinot Noir, so you shouldn’t expect to find wines with the polish and finesse of Burgundy -- or even Oregon. But a tasting of more than a dozen Kiwi Pinots available in Los Angeles turned up a few nice surprises. They tended to be more herbal than most Pinots. And the best had some complexity and good acidity -- all of which makes them good food wines.

Here are the ones we liked best:

* 2001 Voss Estate, Martinborough, $43.

Young and fresh with a spicy, candied-apple aroma.

* 2000 Ata Rangi, Martinborough, $45.

Well-balanced in the classic Pinot style.

* 2000 Palliser Estate, Martinborough, $24.

Richer than most, more concentrated, with ripe-fruit aromas.

* 2000 Martinborough Vineyard, $40.

Some complexity and a nice finish; light enough for fish.

* 2001 Peregrine, Central Otago, $33.

Simple and direct, but slightly acidic.

* 1999 Two Paddocks, Central Otago, $28.

Smooth with balanced fruit flavors. One of the best values.

* 2001 Felton Road, Central Otago, $36.

Cherry aroma, with good acidity and a nice long finish.

* 2000 Foxes Island, Marlborough, $27.

Ripe and fruity; a sturdy wine to match with big flavors, like barbecue.

-- Corie Brown