You might need deep pockets

If you are offended by the blank face of a mere pancake or the shallow crevices of an ordinary waffle, then listen up. The Belgian waffle has been perfected ... at a price.

Big, expensive appliances that do only one thing beg to be mocked.

But if you love Belgian waffles, you’ll have to have one. We tested them, considering ease of use (especially waffle removal -- though all five are nonstick, it can still be an issue), seeking the one that makes the most appealing waffle with the best texture -- crisp, light and evenly browned.

Out of five, we liked the most expensive best. But it is wildly expensive. Like the winner, the runner-up can be flipped over during cooking, a feature that creates air pockets in the waffle while baking it golden brown on both sides. The downside is it complicates cleanup.

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The champ

The KitchenAid Pro Line Waffle Baker is the punch line for a joke about people who define themselves by the heft of their kitchen hardware. This take-no-prisoners appliance is just what the Belgian embassy needs for Sunday brunch. It also happens to make a light-as-a-feather, crisp, golden waffle.

What’s the difference: With a whopping 1,400 watts of power, it takes 8.5 minutes to heat but makes two 7.5-inch waffles in 4.5 minutes, twice the capacity of the others. Cradled on hefty metal arms, flipping is easy. Has a built-in timer, but not adjustable temperature.

What we thought: These waffles were the fluffiest of the bunch, gorgeous golden-brown. They popped out easily.

How much: $300, Williams-Sonoma.

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Real world winner

The Waring Pro makes a near-perfect waffle, but its capacity is smaller.

What’s the difference: At 1,200 watts, it takes 4.5 minutes to heat and makes one 7.5-inch waffle in 3 minutes. It’s lighter than the KitchenAid model, but almost as bulky. An adjustable temperature and a built-in timer ensure a crisp waffle.

What we thought: The flip feature let waffles cook evenly. Removal was also a snap.

How much: $80, Linens ‘n Things, Sur La Table.

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Runner-up

VillaWare’s Petite Belgian Waffle Maker is compact, with models offering a variety of shapes from barnyard animals to hearts to rounds.

What’s the difference: Without the flip feature, the waffle browns properly on only one side, making it heavier and more difficult to remove. At 1,000 watts, it heats up in 5 minutes and cooks three 3-inch round waffles in 2.5 minutes. Pluses: temperature controls and timer.

What we thought: Just put the ugly side down on the plate. No one will notice.

How much: $60 to $90, Williams-Sonoma.

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Chic but worthless

Black & Decker’s Michael Graves-designed Belgian waffle maker is small and sleek.

What’s the difference: Underpowered at 650 watts, it took 4 minutes to heat and 4 minutes to cook a 7-inch waffle. The waffle never browned and tore apart when removed.

What we thought: The wannabe Belgian waffles are shallow-grooved and wimpy.

How much: $20, Target.

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No better

Proctor Silex’s Belgian Waffle Maker makes bigger wannabes.

The difference: With 1,200 watts, it took 4 minutes to heat and 5 minutes to cook four 4-inch square waffles that fell to pieces when removed.

What we thought: Disappointing.

How much: $20, Target.