Literati’s new edition

Oops, I just about stepped in a squid -- no, make that an ink drawing of a fountain pen embedded in the glossy floor of Literati II. The more polished, decidedly grown-up cousin of Literati Cafe next door, Literati II would seem to be for the Tennessee Williamses or Norman Mailers among us. Dave Eggers or Jonathan Safran Foer need not apply, if the photos of famous scribblers mounted on the walls are anything to go by.

For readers and writers, this new West L.A. restaurant has a cozy, welcoming feel. At one long table, three generations are celebrating a birthday. At a table for two, a couple reminisces, looking out through French doors on the patio beyond.

We’re just there to eat, and whereas the 4-year-old Literati Cafe specializes in sandwiches and such, the menu at Literati II is more fine dining, albeit casual. The chef is Chris Kidder, who was chef de cuisine at Campanile a while back, and his food definitely has that California-Mediterranean thing going for it.

You know you’re someplace serious when bruschetta with baby octopus leaps out at you from the one-page menu (printed each day). In this case, it’s a slice of toasted La Brea bread topped with grilled octopus, soft, savory white beans and cooked spinach, and it’s delicious.

There’s a lovely citrus salad, too, made with butter lettuce showered with chives, feta cheese, avocado and walnuts. Soup is a regular. It could be sweet pea and green garlic, or a cauliflower puree embellished with grilled shrimp. But if you want just one appetizer to share, go for the terrific fritto misto -- quartered artichokes, green beans, white carrots and more in a light lacy batter.

Most of the meats come from Niman Ranch in Northern California. That includes an excellent burger with a heap of golden fries; at $12, it’s something of a bargain these days. Steak frites means a Niman hanger steak that’s both tender and flavorful for $19. There are also cioppino, sand dabs with caper berries and lamb osso buco with fava bean mashed potatoes and roasted artichokes.

Pace yourself. You absolutely cannot leave Literati II without trying the churros. Someone in the kitchen really knows how to fry: These are fat and crunchy but soft as a cloud inside, wearing a drift of sugar and cinnamon. Oh, and there’s chocolate pudding to dip them in, if you want to gild the lily.

Come out and meet the new kid on the block -- and bring your fountain pen.

*

Literati II

Where: 12081 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles

When: Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Mondays through Fridays; dinner 6 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 5:30 to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Full bar. Valet parking $2 with validation.

Cost: Dinner appetizers, $8 to $15.50; main courses, $12 to $34; sides, $5; desserts, $6 to $12.

Info: (310) 479-3400