Tequila taste tests

If your knowledge of tequila begins and ends with that silly party song -- you know, the one with the sole lyric of “tequila” -- it might be time to do a little research.

El Carmen

Who knew there were so many kinds of tequila? At this lovably scruffy bar you can choose from well over 300 varieties. Prefer your tequila blended? Consider the Mexican Painkiller, an amped-up version of a pina colada. The compact menu is all about tacos and flautas.

* Mexican Painkiller, $8; tequilas $4.50 to $30; 8138 West 3rd St., L.A. (323) 852-1552.

*

Border Grill

Looking for a great margarita? The margarita made with El Tesoro Anejo tequila, Grand Marnier and fresh lime is hard to beat. Those wanting to try something a little different might opt for the prickly pear margarita.

* Margaritas, $8 to $12; tequila, $7.75 to $18; 1445 4th St., Santa Monica; (310) 451-1655.

*

Mexicali

This always-bustling San Fernando Valley cantina offers a terrific array of tequilas -- over 45 selections -- some perfect for a margarita, others for sipping. Mexicali also claims to have invented the Margatini, a margarita-martini hybrid served on the rocks or up in a martini glass. The dozen or so variations include the Ranchtini with a blue-cheese stuffed olive.

* Margaritas, $4.75 to $9; tequila, $5.25 to $20.75; Margatini, $6 to $12.70; 12161 Ventura Blvd.; Studio City; (818) 985-1744.

*

Malo

This spot with the inauspicious name dishes up Mexican comfort food like chile verde. To go along, there are nearly 100 tequila offerings, including several flights that allow diners to compare and contrast. There is also a decent selection of mezcals (a close cousin of tequila), some bottled with worms, others with scorpions.

* Margaritas, $6 and up; tequila, $6 to $55; tequila flights, $20 to $40; 4326 Sunset Blvd.; Silver Lake; (323) 664-1011.

*

El Cholo

After nearly 75 years of practice (the current location opened in 1931), it’s little wonder the bartenders at this Mexican eatery know how to make a textbook margarita. We’re also fond of the electric-blue version made with curacao. In addition, there are some three dozen tequilas for sipping and, of course, heaping plates of enchiladas.

* Magaritas, $6.75 to $24; tequila, $5.75 to $32; 1121 S. Western Ave.; L.A. (323) 734-2773.

*

-- Leslee Komaiko