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Antipasto

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Il Fornaio

We love sitting at the counter at these bustling trattorias and watching the deft chefs assemble the antipasto della casa, a colorful plate of about 10 items. There are balls of fresh, milky mozzarella cinched with prosciutto, warm grilled baby artichokes, caponata, medallions of goat cheese wrapped in smoked salmon and more.

* Antipasto della casa, $9.95 per person, for two or more. Locations include 301 N. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 550-8330.

Locanda del Lago

The antipasto buffet offered weekdays at lunch at this spacious trattoria is one of our favorites. Choose from approximately a dozen items such as wedges of frittata tricked out with mushrooms and tender fillets of trout marinated in Champagne vinegar and served chilled.

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* Lunch buffet as an appetizer, $5.50; as an entree, $9.95. 231 Arizona Ave., Santa Monica; (310) 451-3525.

Ago

Among the offerings at this perennially trendy, bilevel dining room is a classic caprese (sliced tomatoes layered with buffalo mozzarella and fresh basil) and bresaola (paper-thin dry cured beef served with arugula and shaved parmesan and drizzled with olive oil).

* Antipasti, $12 to $16. 8478 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood; (323) 655-6333.

Ca’ del Sole

This cozy spot (sister restaurant to Locanda Veneta and Ca’ Brea) does a number of compelling antipasti. There’s a classic beef carpaccio, fried calamari with a spunky tartar sauce, and a salad of tender baby octopus, endive and potatoes dressed simply in olive oil and fresh oregano.

* Antipasti, $6.15 to $9.50. 4100 Cahuenga Blvd., North Hollywood; (818) 985-4669.

La Bottega Marino

Stock up on dry pasta, olive oil and cookies before or after you dine at this deli annexed to Il Grano restaurant. Vegetarians might opt for the antipasto plate: an assortment of items such as sauteed mushrooms or zucchini, eggplant in tomato sauce and roasted red and yellow peppers served with bread and a small dish of checca (chopped tomatoes with basil and olive oil).

* Antipasto vegetariano, $9.75. 11363 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A.; (310) 477-7777.

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-- Leslee Komaiko

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