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2003 Vina Alarba Old Vines Grenache

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An eminently qualified candidate for barbecue season, the 2003 Vina Alarba Old Vines Grenache will not be cowed by your spiciest creations. Spain does it again with this inexpensive country red from vines that are at least 50 years old.

It’s hard to find a wine with so much character at this price. Rich and concentrated, with scents of cherry, plum and pepper, and more polish than you’d expect, it’s just as ready for some salami and cheese as for a side of barbecued ribs. Designed for quaffing, this is the kind of red you’d be happy to find in a Spanish tapas bar to accompany a plate of jamon.

Quick swirl

Region: Catalonia

Price: About $6

Style: Hearty

Food it goes with: Cured meats, barbecue

Where you find it: La Bodega Wine & Spirits in Riverside, (951) 683-3307; Silver Lake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454, (800) 76WINEX; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111.

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