New toque

Joe’s

This Venice favorite is still very much Joe Miller’s restaurant. But the new kid heading up the kitchen on a day-to-day basis is Joshua Gil, who writes a new seven-course tasting menu every day. (And since he’s been on board, he hasn’t repeated a single dish.) But the regular menu features plenty of appealing choices. Consider: slow-roasted wild king salmon with butternut squash risotto and nutmeg froth.

* Tasting menu, $68; salmon $28. 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice; (310) 399-5811.

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Gardens Restaurant

When longtime chef Conny Andersson left Gardens (for sister property the Regent Beverly Wilshire), regulars at this Four Seasons dining room got a bit worried. They need not have. One taste of Ashley James’ sumptuous banana, lemongrass and coconut soup is all the proof you need.

* Soup, $12. 300 S. Doheny Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 273-2222.

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P6

Robert Lia, who most recently cooked at Cicada downtown, came on board at this sexy Conejo Valley spot (yes, there is such a thing) just a few weeks ago. In that time, he’s brought focus to the menu, which was all over the globe. Now it’s best described as progressive American. Think oven-roasted duck breast with a balsamic and pomegranate reduction. But you can still get a pizza at the bar.

* Duck, $24; pizzas, $10 to $12. 2809 Agoura Road, Westlake Village; (805) 778-0123.

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O-Bar

Scott Hawley, a Seattle native who has worked with luminaries such as Jeremiah Tower, took over the kitchen at this happening restaurant and lounge this summer and completely revamped the menu. Early favorites include a pot roast-style lamb shank served over mashed potatoes, and moist roast chicken.

* Lamb, $27; chicken, $18. 8279 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood; (323) 822-3300.

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Polo Lounge

Talk about an impressive resume. Robert Allen has worked at four Michelin-starred restaurants in Europe. He’s taking his time instituting changes at this legendary hotel dining room. In the future, expect more of an emphasis on seasonal and regional produce. Classics such as chicken noodle soup and rack of lamb are probably here to stay.

* Soup, $11; lamb, $39. 9641 Sunset Blvd., Beverly Hills; (310) 276-2251.

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-- Leslee Komaiko