Tartare invasion

The explosion of steakhouses means there’s a lot of steak tartare to be had. But the manly temples of meat aren’t the only places serving up the good stuff.

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Reservations at Cut, Wolfgang Puck’s new steakhouse, can be hard to come by. But it’s first come, first served at this adjacent bar, also designed by Richard Meier. And the same kitchen turns out the selection of gourmet snacks, including steak tartare made with a blend of prime sirloin and Kobe filet and served atop crostini painted with herb mayo.

* Tartare, $18. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-8500.

Brussels Bistro

At this light and bright Belgian spot, you can choose from nearly 20 Belgian beers. The tartare is made to order with several traditional ingredients and some not so traditional, notably ketchup. It comes with a green salad and a side of crisp Belgian fries, served in a paper cone with homemade mayonnaise for dipping.

* Tartare, $19. 222 Forest Ave., Laguna Beach, (949) 376-7955.

Boa Steakhouse

Several dishes are prepared tableside at this sleek beachside looker, including steak tartare. A waiter wheels out a wood cart bearing a chilled white plate of finely chopped beef, a quivering quail egg and several accouterments. Everything is then mixed together. (The not-so-

secret ingredient? Cognac.) The tartare is served with toast points, cornichon and Kalamata olives.

* Tartare, $16. 101 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 899-4466.

The Restaurant

at the Hotel Bel-Air

Chef Doug Dodd amps up the luxury factor of this dish by adding summer truffles and presenting it on a silver charger. There are also minced chives and parsley from the hotel’s own garden as well as crisp brioche toasts so you can make your own open-face tartare sandwiches.

* Tartare, $34. 701 Stone Canyon Road, Bel-Air, (310) 472-1211.

Whist

Chef Warren Schwartz does what might be the prettiest presentation in town at this hip hotel dining room. (But there’s more to the dish than looks.) Stripes of capers, pickled onion, arugula, egg white and egg yolk are set atop chilled prime beef for a flag-like effect. The server mixes these along with fleur de sel, olive oil and a quail egg. Three grilled crostini make for happy munching.

* Tartare, $16. 1819 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica, (310) 451-8711.

-- Leslee Komaiko