Ready for the bright lights

POLLO CAMPERO, the fast-food pride of Guatemala, has been steadily expanding its fried chicken empire. After it opened its first restaurant in 1971, its deep-fried goodness quickly saturated Latin America. Four years ago, it launched its first L.A. location, and last week, with its newest outlet on Sunset Boulevard at St. Andrews Place, Campero has finally gone Hollywood.

At first glance, Campero may remind one of El Pollo Loco, with its salsa bar and side orders that include beans, rice and tortillas. But whereas Loco specializes in healthier grilled chicken, Campero stays decidedly old school, frying the fryers, albeit in trans-fat-free oil.

You may ask: Can anyone still get excited about fried chicken these days? It can’t be very different from the regular, extra crispy or spicy varieties at other fast-food joints, right? Wrong.

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Pollo Campero Fried Chicken

Taste****

Let’s start with the breading, which is darker and puffier than most chicken breading. It tastes more like tempura coating, or the type found on fish ‘n’ chips. (Think Pioneer Chicken in its heyday.) Then there’s the chicken itself. According to Campero’s paper tray-liner, its unique flavor comes from an “injection marination” of herbs and spices. It sounds painful, but tastes oh-so-good.

Diet Watch**

A two-piece mixed order with a side of rice and corn tortillas has 847 calories. If you want 72 fewer calories, replace the rice with an order of sweet plantains. Not only are these starchy fried bananas a yummy treat, at 116 calories, they’re the lightest side dish on the menu.

Portability**

There’s nothing spectacular about the to-go packaging, just the same type of paper boxes you get at most places. However, if the chicken stays in your car very long, your car will smell like chicken. For some, that’s an annoyance, but for others, it’s even better than that “new car” smell.

Hype-o-meter***

Last year, Newsweek listed Campero President Juan Jose Gutierrez among “10 Big Thinkers in Big Business,” touting his bold moves to get Campero chicken into non-Latin countries such as China and Indonesia. It’s impressive until you realize the article also raved about publisher Judith Regan, before the O.J. book deal and her subsequent fall from grace.

* Ratings are on a scale of one (lowest) to four (best).