Refreshingly above it all

“The Atherton Tablelands” doesn’t roll off the tongue. That’s why North Queensland tourism promoters refer to the region as “The Cairns Highlands.” They’re banking that people Web-surfing for the Great Barrier Reef will stumble on the region’s volcanic farmland, crater lakes and bird-watching, reputed to be among the best in Australia

Losing the urban vibe

The elevated plateau is a favorite retreat for city dwellers interested in escaping hot, humid summers -- or looking for serenity year-round. The area is one of the food bowls of Australia, where artists and back-to-nature enthusiasts coexist with peanut, corn and potato farmers. The growing number of bed-and-breakfasts has turned it into a destination rather than just a day trip. Still, the tenor is consistently low-key -- befitting an area larger than Britain yet with only 30,000 residents.

*

Forests and waterfalls

About 20 minutes outside Cairns, my friend Lisa and I stopped at the Skyrail, one of the world’s longest cableways. At the first station in the 45-minute, one-way trip, there’s a forest walkway. “That’s the lawyer vine ... quite nasty but useful,” our guide Seiji observed of a plant along the path. People can get tangled in the vine, but it also stores water and numbs tooth pain. At another outlook, we had views of dramatic Barron Falls. We bypassed the Kuranda Scenic Railway in favor of the Skyrail return.

*

Room at the top

Next stop, the Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat, an eco-resort 90 minutes southwest of Cairns. The retreat’s entrance, at the end of a nearly two-mile-long dirt road, didn’t reward our persistence. A small wooden sign pointed to a barely visible reception area, where guests are handed an oversized key. I was shown to No. 2, “Chowchilla” -- named for a bird native to the Atherton Tablelands north of Cairns -- as are the other four “pole-and-timber” treehouses.

*

This is a treehouse?

It’s OK, I reassured myself. There’s nothing wrong with roughing it. Then I opened the door. “Chowchilla,” described as the most “intimate” of Rose Gum’s accommodations, was as sizable and lovely as a studio apartment. The room had floor-to-ceiling windows, cathedral ceilings, a wood-burning stove, a dining area and a leather couch adjoining the king-sized bed.

*

Comforts and creatures

A triangular-shaped whirlpool tub had a view of Wooroonooran National Park, and a sizable balcony overlooked Mt. Bartle Frere, Queensland’s tallest mountain. In the kitchen was a hamper filled with eggs, bacon, bread, yogurt -- and muesli, of course. It was nature, the way I like it ... with all the comforts of home.

“After driving down the dirt road, [guests are] relieved it’s not a shack,” said Peta Nott, who owns the resort with her husband, Jon.

*

Dairy farm to tree farm

When the couple bought the old dairy farm in 1994, half the trees on the 23-acre spread had been cleared. (Not until 1988 was World Heritage status bestowed on the rain forest, preserving the terrain.) Aided by government subsidies, the Notts planted 10,000 trees, and then an additional 4,000 on their own. “Rose Gums” refers to a kind of eucalyptus scattered throughout the property. In 1999, the first treehouse was built.

*

Kookaburras galore

In October, it was springtime in the Southern Hemisphere, perfect for strolling around lakes Eacham and Barrine, extinct volcanic crater lakes 10 and 20 minutes away, respectively. Each has an easy, tree-lined walk around the perimeter. At Barrine, a guided wildlife ferry boat cruise departs four times a day.

*

Where to eat

Flynn’s gourmet dinner compared favorably with some of our best meals in Sydney. For our main course, we chose the barramundi, a flaky cod-like fish. The pan-fried dish is the most popular on Flynn’s menu; 17 Eacham Road, Yungaburra, Queensland 4884; 011-61-7-4095-2235 or fine dine@bigpond.net.au. Lake Edge Teahouse restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea; Malanda Falls Visitors Center, Atherton Road, Malanda, Queensland, 011-61-7-4096-6957.

*

Where to stay

Rose Gums Wilderness Retreat offers tree-house lodging for $150 a night plus $23 for each additional adult and $11 per child. The quietest months are February and March, when the wet season begins; P.O. Box 776, Malanda, Queensland, Australia; 011-61-7-4096-8360, www.rosegums.com.au. Cairn’s highlands cater to all kinds of accommodation needs -- hotels, motels, farm stays, retreats, backpackers’ lodging and camping spots. For options, see www.athertontablelands.com.

*

Tour information

Alan’s Bird Guiding Tours leads excursions of varying lengths. Two hours, $80 per adult or couple; 2 Mather Road, Malanda, Yungaburra, Queensland, 011-61-7-4095-3784, www.alanswildlifetours.com.au. Lake Barrine Rainforest Cruises and Teahouse offers trips six times a day; adult $13, child $6.50. Gilles Highway, Yungaburra, Queensland 4884; 011-61-7-4095-3847. Wilderness Australia leads safaris throughout the country; P.O. Box R446, Sydney, New South Wales, 1225, Australia; 011-61-2-9231-2113, www.wildernessaustralia.com.au.

*

Getting there

From LAX, Air New Zealand flies directly to Cairns, the closest city, an hour’s drive away. Air New Zealand, Qantas and Cathay Pacific have connecting flights (change of plane). Also, United connects to Qantas or Australian Airways. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,158.