Catch some cod

Cobras & Matadors

To make the golden bacalao cakes at this lively hang, the chefs combine potato, sauteed yellow onion, parsley, egg and, of course, salt cod. The cakes are coated in breadcrumbs, pan-sauteed and served hot with two sauces: a mild salsa verde made with parsley, capers and green onion, and garlicky aioli.

* Bacalao cakes, $7. 7615 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 932-6178.

Pinot Bistro

Some dishes have remained on the menu at this popular San Fernando Valley bistro since restaurateur Joachim Splichal opened the place 14 years ago. Take the whitefish, a lovely piece of mild fish with irresistibly crispy skin served on top of creamy mashed potatoes accented with salt cod.

* Whitefish, $18.50. 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 990-0500.

Campanile

Among the starters offered at lunchtime at this iconic L.A. eatery is agnolotti: handmade pasta pillows filled with a twist on the classic Provencal brandade (a mixture of salt cod, garlic and olive oil), here made with sage oil. Just before service, the pasta is sauteed until it gets just crispy and tossed with cherry tomatoes, wild arugula and olive oil.

* Agnolotti, $15. 624 S. La Brea Ave., L.A., (323) 938-1447.

Tasca

There’s a lot to like about this 8-month-old wine bar, even if it is still waiting for a wine and beer license. Chef Nano Crespo, formerly of Amalfi on La Brea, does several variations on French and Mediterranean classics. He enriches brandade with creme fraiche and adds minced smoked salmon. A topping of breadcrumbs comes next. Then into the oven it goes, so the top gets crunchy. It’s served with crostini.

* Brandade, $8. 8108 W. 3rd St., L.A., (323) 951-9890.

Ciudad

The salt cod fritters served at this stylish pan-Latin spot start with a basic brandade, formed into golf-ball-sized spheres, which are coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried. They are served with an alioli sauce, a lusty Catalonian mayo made with olive oil and garlic. But you can only get ‘em Sunday nights, when the restaurant ditches its regular menu in favor of an extensive all-tapas menu.

* Fritters, $6. 445 S. Figueroa St., L.A., (213) 486-5171.

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-- Leslee Komaiko