Nothing fancy about it

THE old Le Chine Wok space on Beverly Boulevard, where red paper Chinese lanterns used to bob in the breeze, now shows off clean Modernist lines with a dark wood facade. The sign reads “Hatfield’s” in big, bold letters. It’s the new restaurant from Quinn and Karen Hatfield, who have moved from San Francisco back to Karen’s hometown.

The two chefs met when they worked together at Spago a decade ago. New York and various high-profile kitchens followed, and then San Francisco, where the couple were co-chefs at Cortez, a hotel restaurant with a smart, appealing menu of Mediterranean-inspired small plates.

Hatfield’s is a much smaller place, just 50 seats, and that’s when the pocket patio on the side is full up. But there’s something so personal and passionate about this effort, you can’t help but be charmed. A relief from all the trendy places where setting trumps the food every time, Hatfield’s is, thankfully, all about the food.

An amuse of deviled quail eggs and a shot of blushing pink watermelon coconut agua fresca start things off on a festive note. First courses are just as interesting and unexpected, with dishes such as braised rabbit and foie gras terrine with oven-dried cherry salad, or dainty sweet corn raviolini with pickled shallots and cherry tomato salad. Charred Japanese octopus with roasted fennel and vanilla-braised heart of palm immediately caught my eye. And I loved the “croque-Madame” of hamachi and jambon de Bayonne on grilled brioche.

For the main courses, the chefs are into slow cooking, which works beautifully with something like halibut poached in olive oil, but is less successful with butter-poached grass-fed veal. The cooking technique leaves the meat weirdly soft. Pan-roasted hanger steak with horseradish-crusted short ribs is a good bet, though. And that halibut, served with herbed asparagus and duck cracklings, is wonderful.

Save room, lots of room, for dessert, because Karen Hatfield’s are stellar. You might want to order several to share. Make one the warm sugar and spice beignets with Venezuelan chocolate fondue, and definitely don’t miss the tender buttermilk panna cotta with strawberry gelee and hibiscus sorbet.

All this with good, low-key service, and a short, but intelligent wine list. The neighborhood, I’m quite sure, is going to be very pleased to meet the Hatfields.

*

Hatfield’s

Where: 7458 Beverly Blvd., L.A.

When: 6 to 10 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays. Full bar. Valet parking.

Price: Appetizers, $12 to $16; main courses, $26 to $32; desserts, $9 to $10; three-course market menu, $42; seven-course tasting menu, $72.

Info: (323) 935-2977, www.hatfieldsrestaurant.com