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Wendy’s motto: Be there and be square

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Special to The Times

“CIABATTA” is Italian for “slipper,” which explains why ciabatta bread in Italy is often shaped like a small, flat shoe. In America, where we alter foreign food for fun and profit, the ciabatta has been transformed into a square bun, and no one has been more successful at marketing its crusty-yet-spongy goodness than Jack in the Box. Heck, some of you probably hadn’t even heard the word “ciabatta” till Jack’s clever commercials, right?

This puts Wendy’s in a tight spot. They’ve just introduced four new deli sandwiches on the same type of square bun Jack uses, but they don’t want to use the word “ciabatta,” lest we accuse them of jumping on the bandwagon, which they obviously have.

Instead they’re calling it “artisan bread,” which can mean just about anything, and they’re pushing the word “Frescata” to describe the sandwiches.

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“Frescata,” explains a company spokesperson, “is an original name designed to connote freshness. Fres. Cata. It’s like fresh-cata!”

What. Ever. Good bread is good bread, and Wendy’s deli sandwiches, no matter what they’re called, are winners.

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Wendy’s Frescata Deli Sandwiches

Taste ***

The four sandwiches are surprisingly similar, but they’re all quite yummy. There’s ham and Swiss, turkey and Swiss, and a club sandwich with ham, turkey, bacon and no Swiss. The most interesting and best tasting of the bunch is turkey with mild pimento peppers and a “basil pesto” spread that contains hints of Romano and Parmesan cheese.

Diet Watch****

All the Frescatas are fairly light on calories, ranging from 420 to 490, depending on the model. (By comparison, Wendy’s double burger with cheese has 700.) Wendy’s also offers one of the most light-calorie combo options of any major chain. A bottle of water and a small bag of Baked Lay’s add only 130 calories to your intake.

Portability **

Wendy’s wraps the Frescatas in easy-to-open paper and cellophane packaging, and the sandwiches are firm to grip. But they can be a much messier meal than expected, because the guys behind the counter can be apt to spread too much spread on the bread.

Hype-o-meter **

It’s a good thing the sandwiches are better than their ad campaign, which shows a rival sandwich being made out of foam rubber. Wendy’s commercials just haven’t been the same since founder/spokesman/heartthrob Dave Thomas went to that Biggie Value Meal in the sky.

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* Ratings are on a scale of one (lowest) to four (best).

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