Blue Crush

The world capital of premium denim is here, where design houses, manufacturing plants and laundries have turned low fashion into high art. “Denim is nearly 100% cotton-a living, breathing fabric,” says Otis College of Art and Design professor Tadd Zarubica, who is chief executive and designer of the jeans line Denim of Virtue. “Everything you do to it is like a brush stroke on a canvas.” Special washes with rocks and rubber balls, as well as hand-applied distressing techniques, can add $7 to $20 to the cost of a pair of jeans. Add fancy embroidery and the price can top $200. Companies won’t talk about their techniques, but Zarubica gave Elizabeth Khuri his take on what they might be.

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$58 GAP

Embellishing denim is like ordering a la carte: The more you pile it on, the bigger the bill. On these Boy Cut jeans, there are “only a few handcrafted elements,” Zarubica says. For example, the pockets are probably distressed with two drill bits: the “destroy” on the lower part and the “grinding” on upper. The jeans are then processed to create a flat, sun-bleached effect and undulating blue lines. *

$165 KASIL

Enter the sweet spot for premium denim. These jeans cost more than those at chain stores because of their fit, the quality of the fabric and the complexity of the distressing and washing techniques. Kasil’s Mason jeans are made of richer, thicker denim that, after several washes, still shows a broad spectrum of blue. “It looks really naturally worn and soft.” A strip of material on the pocket adds a punch of color yet stays true to the latest trend favoring a dark, clean backside.

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$174 JOE’S

The Socialite is an ode to the ‘70s with a multitude of processes. Note the rainbow and shredding on the rear pocket and the all-over scratches, most likely done with a metal brush. The pants are then sprayed with a cocktail of chemicals to remove all pigment and subjected to “a big blowout wash.” The two-piece trouser-style waistband is lined for a better fit. “This is a design-driven company.”

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$198 HABITUAL

Simple can be expensive. At first glance, the Skinny 6 String Jean appears monochromatic, which is all the rage, but there are myriad details: a faint gray H for subtle branding, swoops of embroidery and pockets edged with brown and red threads. “This is a nice piece of denim with a very clean wash” that uniformly bleeds out the color.

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$230 7 FOR ALL MANKIND

This iconic designer jean has all the characteristics of a premium denim line: a sloped waist, grommets, gold embroidery and multiple distressing applications, including grinding, sanding and probably a chemical spray for a streaky look. The company was “one of the first to break the barrier” of $100 jeans, and succeeded because of the way the pants make the wearer look. On this pair of Dojo jeans, the legs are darker along the seams, while light threads in the cloth create a mini-pinstripe effect, drawing the eye away from those nasty problem areas.

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$292 ROCK & REPUBLIC

The Reed kicks butt with what looks like a resin wash, which is “coming back in style.” The sticky stuff is hand-painted on the jeans, which are then baked in a kiln for a subtle gloss. Also adding to the price is the embroidery, which is added to the pants after each pair is assembled. Patterns for all heavily treated jeans must also be re-sized, because shrinkage affects each differently--adding to design costs.