Whipping up an empire

DAYTIME upstart Rachael Ray broke into television on the Food Network, with shows on quick-to-fix meals and budget travel and dining. This fall, she launched her own syndicated show, “Rachael Ray,” which has become the best received daytime show since “Dr. Phil,” outperforming “Ellen” and surprising those who had predicted a slam dunk for another new fall TV talk show host, Megan Mullally. More of a conglomerate than a host, Ray, 38, has also written 16 books and launched her own magazine, Every Day With Rachael Ray, attracting ever more fans to her hyper-enthusiastic, seize-the-day message delivered in a gravelly, sorority-girl voice, as well as drawing complaints that she has diminished the world of television chefs with fluff, nonsense and simple-minded advice. On a recent visit to L.A., Ray arrived for lunch at Burbank’s French 75 in jeans, diamonds and borrowed Prada pumps. She immediately ordered a glass of Beaujolais and, later, fish in parchment.

*

Are people more interested in cooks than chefs now?

Do you have to choose? Julia Child was a great chef, but I think of her as a cook because she was so down to earth, she told a lot of stories, she never pursued perfection.... There are people who find peace and satisfaction in making simple meals that are pleasing to the palate and the eye. And other people who really enjoy the tradition and complexities of grand cuisine. There’s room for everybody.

*

But do people who like the simple things really need instruction in letting the honey fill the bear’s head before squeezing?

That was a joke. I’m not literally giving them instruction. Some of the recipes are very simple. Some are not.

*

How do you like having a live audience?

Omigod, that’s such a huge difference, it’s crazy. People thought I was peppy before? At home I’m extremely quiet. At work I get hopped up telling a story. But now? It’s like I’m on crack. With all those people there? Like 120 new people every few hours? All those I-can’t-stand-Rachael Ray people, I must have sent them into shock. They must have gone into seizures. I’m trying to calm down a little bit.

*

Do you consider yourself controversial?

Oh, you mean the “rachaelraysucks” website and all that? I don’t consider that controversial. Look at Martha, look at Oprah. It’s too intimate a business that there won’t always be a camp of people who don’t like what you’re doing that day or in general. I don’t take that personally at all. And everything they say is true .... You can’t please all the people all the time, and any successful person would hopefully tell you the same. That can’t be my business plan in life, to make people like me. Not a good plan. You do what you do, try and recognize your limits, try and be the best at what you do.

*

What is the business plan?

I really love making joyous programming and the type of editorial we make in the magazine. Anybody can live a rich life. It’s for all of us, not just for the haves. That’s all I want is for people to take a little bit bigger bite out of their day-to-day lives. Not wait until their vacation, not wait until they retire, not wait until they make more money, not wait until they have a day off, not wait for the right guy, the right girl, or the right moment.

*

What do viewers really want?

They have opinions. They have questions on everything from soup to nuts. Kids 8 and 9 years old are now sending in advice.... We had so many viewer comments on what they do with Baggies. [One viewer] sucks air out. A viewer puts Baggies over her sandals when it rains. There are so many really good Baggie tips, it’s crazy .... On the show we made a seven-minute meal. So many people enjoyed it, we’re going to do a whole bunch of 15-minute meals. We’re trying to make it super simple. Still fresh, flavorful, but make some quick, no-brainer, just nothing recipe or method fun. That’s our new challenge ... Hic ... Sorry, I get the hiccups from talking too fast. [On air] I can usually make it to break and then they just hold until we come back. I can mask them pretty well, or they can do a cut-away to food ... [She checks her watch and sees it’s time to go.] Where’s my shoe?

-- Lynn Smith