‘Enchanting’ embodied

FOR a belle epoque beauty, the Hotel Metropole hardly seemed like a place to get a bargain. But here I was, feeling like royalty as I climbed three flights of carpeted stairs in the Italian Riviera resort hotel, which is still owned by the family that built it more than a century ago.

“Benvenuto,” the pencil-thin attendant said with a smile, opening the door to a spacious, light-filled suite.

I loved its regal blue curtains and nautical paintings, but the flower-draped balcony overlooking palm-fringed gardens and the sparkling Mediterranean beyond really stole my heart. It was early February, and standing in the sunlight with my friend Troy, I thought: “Those Victorian tourists who put this place on the map had it right: Winter in Liguria is splendid indeed.”

This time of year, there were few guests at the hotel in Santa Margherita Ligure, and we were offered a great deal: $122 per night for a luxury suite. In summer, the cheapest room is more than $250.

Over the next few days, I was reminded repeatedly of the advantage of visiting in winter: low prices, few visitors, temperatures in the 60s and 70s -- and sales at all the boutiques.

Liguria is the narrow strip of cliffs, cypress trees, beaches and villages in northern Italy that stretches from the French border to Tuscany. The Apenines shield it from Europe’s cold winters.

Few outsiders knew about the area until 1855, when a homesick Giovanni Ruffini, who had been exiled to Britain, wrote “Doctor Antonio.” The novel describes how a doctor and his daughter visit the town of San Remo and become intoxicated with the beauty and climate of the Mediterranean.

Word spread throughout Victorian England, and thus began the British invasion of what would later be known as the Italian Riviera. Resort hotels, esplanades and beaches soon followed.

Portofino is probably the area’s best-known resort. Hotels there are prohibitively expensive, however, even in winter. So, guidebooks directed me to Santa Margherita, a central, more affordable place on the Golfo del Tigullio that turned out to be an enchanted destination in its own right. Villages in the surrounding green mountains are known for orange blossoms (which are distilled into essence) and handmade lace.

Amazed at the discovery of such a gem, Troy and I strolled along the esplanade into the heart of town, admiring the million-dollar yachts in the harbor. It felt like the place was ours alone. Elegant hotels painted rose, ocher, blue and orange shared the hillsides with onetime fishing cottages, sidewalk cafes, boutiques, churches and parks.

Despite the nearly 70-degree weather, locals were dressed for winter, wearing fur coats, hats, boots and gloves -- everyone glancing at the strangers in short sleeves and sunglasses.

Cypress-lined alleyways crisscross the steep hillsides. We followed one up a slope behind the waterfront to find a crumbling castle. It was built in a record six months in 1550 and included the oratory of Sant’Erasmo, a 17th century chapel with dioramas inside depicting fishermen going about their business (Erasmo is the patron saint of sailors).

Farther up the hill is the 17th century church of San Giacomo di Corte, its Baroque interior shimmering with crystal chandeliers and gilded trimmings. Next door, a formal Italian park surrounds the Villa Durazzo, a mansion dating to 1560.

Historically, Santa Margherita is a maritime town of fishermen and merchants; beneath its resort veneer, it still is. The intense colors of the houses, for instance, once helped sailors spot them from afar.

On the first night, Troy and I had dinner at the Metropole. Being the low season, we again were offered a deal: a five-course, prix fixe meal -- typically priced at $51 per person -- for $13. The only thing missing from the dining room’s rows of white-clothed tables was ambience; the room was deserted.

I began with the pasta and bean soup. Troy had flat spaghetti with seafood. We passed on the sliced, pressed octopus with tomatoes and both chose the dorata medallions with Ligurian spices for the entree. Mixed green salad followed this local specialty, and then there came an Italian cheese cart with thick slabs of pecorino, bleu d’Aoste and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

We tried to pass on dessert, something the waiter found unacceptable.

“You must,” he said, listing marmalade cake, vanilla ice cream drizzled with chocolate-hazelnut sauce, fruit cup and a specialty of the house.

“We’ll split the fruit,” I said, knowing I couldn’t eat another bite.

“You will not share,” the waiter replied. “It is, after all, only fruit.”

It was not, however, “only fruit.” It was a crystal bowl filled with kiwis and apples and grapes and blood oranges -- and I ate nearly every bite.

Playground of the stars

THE next day, we headed to Portofino, the seafront village billed as the playground of the rich and famous. The town looked familiar enough: A row of tall, narrow, yellow, red and orange houses overlooking a small harbor that appears on posters, guidebook covers and postcards around the world -- the Italian Riviera at its best.

Once a Roman colony (the central town’s street grid dates to ancient times), the village became part of the Republic of Genoa in 1229 and was discovered by British tourists in the early 20th century via horse and cart from Santa Margherita. It rocketed into the international realm of glitter and glam in the 1950s, when the jet set fell under its spell: Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, Rex Harrison and Princess Grace were regulars, and it remains a movie star magnet today.

With visions of designer boutiques, Campari cocktails along the quay and celebrities at every turn, I was frankly surprised to find a rather empty, demure village. A few other tourists strolled about the portside Piazzetta, a single market and cafe had open doors, a lone fisherman sat in his dinghy in the middle of the small harbor.

Opposite the harbor, Troy and I climbed a stone staircase up the headland, topped by the church of San Giorgio, which offers a seagull’s-eye view of the little town below. Beside us, an Italian couple kissed passionately, taking full advantage of the romantic setting.

There are other period towns to visit in the region: Rapallo, where we came across a weekly market along the harbor-side promenade; the fishing hamlet of San Fruttuoso, accessible only by foot or boat; and Camogli, described by Charles Dickens as the roughest, saltiest, most piratical little place.

But to truly understand this area requires a stop at the ancient city of Genoa, Italy’s largest port, about half an hour by train west of Santa Margherita. Rivaled only by Venice, Genoa in the 14th century was one of Italy’s four medieval republics, its territories reaching as far as modern-day North Africa, Syria and the Black Sea. In the mid-1500s, the republic became Europe’s banking center. During this age of prosperity, nearly every fishing village in the region (including Santa Margherita) -- then ruled by the republic -- was gifted a Baroque church by the sea.

These riches explain the Baroque and Rococo palazzi lining Garibaldi Street. For a city with a grit-and-grime reputation, this street banishes all stereotypes. Built for the city’s wealthy merchants in the late 16th century, these mansions are adorned with exquisitely carved figurines, gilded details and delicate stuccowork.

We poked our heads into the Palazzo Doria Tursi (No. 6), Genoa’s City Hall since 1848, and saw a colonnaded courtyard with a double staircase leading to the upper loggia -- looking much like a setting out of Shakespeare. Palazzo Rosso (No. 18), was built in 1671-77, and the Palazzo Bianco (No. 11), built in the 16th century for the Grimaldi family, are now art galleries.

Beyond the street lies a tangle of alleyways populated with black-and-white-striped churches, boutiques, fountains and town houses dating to medieval times. (It’s said to be Europe’s largest historic district.) It’s easy to get lost in the maze, but all streets lead down to the sea, where the Porto Antico (Old Port) sparkles with renovation. Here you’ll find Europe’s largest aquarium, which includes a converted ship filled with large tanks housing dolphins, penguins and sharks.

We explored the harbor front as day turned into night. Dominating the scene was the Bigo, a glowing crane with a revolving elevator that offers amazing views. We went up and admired the sparkling view. I could see that once-gritty Genoa was far more modern than the Riviera towns.

I was content to head back to Santa Margherita, pleasantly stuck in the past, and spend time on my balcony by the sea.

*

(BEGIN TEXT OF INFOBOX)

Mediterranean-adjacent

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, connecting service (change of planes) to Genoa, about 25 miles from Santa Margherita Ligure, is offered on Delta, Lufthansa and Air France. Round-trip restricted fares start at $852.

From the airport, take the No. 100 airport bus or a cab to the Genoa Piazza Principe Railway Station (timetables and ticket prices at www.trenitalia.com). By car, take Autostrada A12, exit at Rapallo and follow signs to Santa Margherita.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 39 (country code for Italy) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Metropole, Via Pagana 2, Santa Margherita Ligure 16038, 0185-286-134; www.metropole.it. Traditional 59-room hotel built at turn of the 20th century in a park that leads to a private beach. Doubles start at $122 per night in winter, $252 in summer.

Grand Hotel Miramare, Via Milite Ignoto 30, Santa Margherita Ligure 16038; 0185-287-013; www.grandhotelmiramare.it. This Art Nouveau palace dating back to 1902 has garden, terrace and modern guest comforts, and it overlooks the sea and the Gulf of Portofino. Doubles start at $306 per night in winter, $437 in summer.

Imperiale Palace Hotel, Via Pagina 19, Santa Margherita Ligure, 16038; 0185-288-991; www.hotelimperiale.com. Built by Corsican aristocrats in 1889 and surrounded by a beautiful park, this belle epoque building features a saltwater swimming pool that overlooks the Golfo di del Tigullio. Doubles start at $348 per night in winter, $409 in summer.

Hotel Splendido, 16 Viale Baratta, 16034 Portofino, 0185-267-801; www.hotelsplendido.com. This 16th century former Benedictine monastery sits on four acres high above the sea. Closed January through March. Doubles start at $1,142 per night mid-season, $1,301 in summer.

WHERE TO EAT:

Trattoria la Cambusa, Via Bottaro 2, Santa Margherita Ligure; 018-526-9081. Closed Thursdays. Simple, delectable dishes in a charming venue with an ocean view. Dinner for two with wine, $60 to $70.

Ristorante il Faro, Via Maragliano 24A, Santa Margherita Ligure; Piazza Martiri dell’Olivetta 41, Portofino; 018-286-867. You’re greeted with a glass of Spumanti and a bite of pizza as you peruse the menu. Dinner for two with wine $60-$80.

Da Rina, Mura delle Grazie, 3/r, Genoa; 010-246-6475. Closed Mondays and in August. Serves Ligurian specialties, especially fish. Great food by the waterfront at reasonable prices. Dinner for two with wine about $90.

Antica Osteria del Bai, Via Quarto 12, Quarto dei Mille, Genoa; 010-387-478, www.osteriadelbai.it. Closed Mondays. A historic, romantic restaurant with tantalizing fish and seafood dishes. Dinner for two with wine $120-$160.

TO LEARN MORE:

APT Tigullio, Via XXV Aprile 4, 16038 Santa Margherita, 0185-292-91; www.apttigullio.liguria.it. Official site of the Tigullio region Tourist Board.

-- Barbara Noe