2006 Palacio de Fefinanes Albarino

From a wine estate founded in 1904 and housed in a 17th century palace comes this fresh, young Albarino made from grapes grown in Galicia near the brisk, salty breezes of the Atlantic. The 2006 Palacio de Fefinanes Albarino is a classic summer white, scented with citrus and peaches and tasting of luscious, ripe fruit. It has so much of the sea in it you can almost feel your toes wriggling in the sand, making this beautiful Albarino required drinking when the temperature soars.

Its crisp minerality means it’s a natural with seafood. Uncork a bottle with some crudo or raw fish carpaccio drizzled with olive oil. It’s perfect with steamed clams and mussels too, and with peel ‘n’ eat shrimp or seafood soups and stews.

At this price, you may be tempted to pick up a case; if stored well, it should be fine for two or three years.

--S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Rias Baixas

Price: About $17

Style: Minerally and bright

Food it goes with: Crudos, steamed shellfish, seafood soups and stews

Where you find it: Mel & Rose Wine & Spirits in West Hollywood, (323) 655-5557, melandrose.com; the Wine Country in Signal Hill, (800) 505-5564 and (562) 597-8303, thewinecoutry.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (800) 769-4639 and (714) 974-1454; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, winehouse.com.