2007 Lini Lambrusco Rosso 'Labrusca'

Lambrusco, the sparkling red wine from the Po Valley in Italy's Emilia region, hasn't had a great rep in this country. But when it's made well, as in the 2007 "Labrusca" from Fabio Lini and family, who have been making the stuff since 1910, it can be a thing of rare beauty. Rich and lush, lightly sparkling and low in alcohol, it's a perfect picnic wine for a hot summer day, great with salumi or your finest prosciutto, lusty pasta dishes and juicy grilled sausages.

Lini also makes an intriguing Lambrusco rose that you can find at some of the same shops as the red.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Reggio-Emilia

Price: About $15

Style: Lush and slightly prickly.

Food it goes with: Salumi and charcuterie, lasagna, grilled sausages and ribs.

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa (949) 650-8463, www.hitime wine.net; Wine Exchange in Orange (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639, www.winex.com; and the Wine House in West Los Angeles (310) 479-3731, www.wine house.com.

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