THE GLUTTON

There are fish tacos to make you weep, and fish tacos to . . . well, make you weep, but in an entirely less appealing way. The first are ecstatic delights carved from the delicate flesh of the minions of the sea. The second are greasy, battered nubs seemingly pulled from Mrs. Paul’s reject pile. And even in L.A., where the humble taco reigns, it can be tricky finding something that doesn’t resemble a glorified fish stick.

That’s why the Glutton avoids battered fish tacos. Except at 2 a.m., after a couple of bourbon and ginger ales, when she makes a beeline for Tacos La Estrella No. 3 (Highland Park) and dives into her usual trio: one shrimp, one fish, one al pastor taco. The seafood batter is light, crisp and golden; the tacos are heaped with cabbage, cilantro, a smoky salsa and plenty of crema; the al pastor rocks and the joint is open 24/7, which means, come morning, the Glutton can grab a little hair of the dog (the tacos, not the booze).

For grilled tacos, the Glutton favors Senor Fish (five locations), which serves tacos and burritos made from your choice of seven types of fish. But what really wows her are their tacos and burritos packed with juicy, grilled scallops. They induce the right kind of crying: tears of joy that bathe the fish in a salty brine, giving them one last taste of home before they disappear down the gullet.

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