2006 Francois Villard Viognier ‘Les Contours de Deponcins’

Francois Villard makes one of the northern Rhone’s most stunning Condrieus, but this talented young vintner also makes a haunting wine called “Les Contours de Deponcins,” which is made from the Viognier grape but doesn’t carry the Condrieu appellation. A vin de pays made from younger Condrieu vines, it is a little less rich than his official Condrieu, yet beautifully balanced, floral and elegant. I absolutely love this wine.

Drink this Rhone white with sushi or with lobster or crab. It’s also a great match with wild mushroom risotto.

-- S. Irene Virbila

Quick swirl

Region: Rhone Valley, France

Price: About $30.

Style: Aromatic and lush.

What it goes with: Sushi, wild mushroom risotto, lobster.

Where to find it: Flask Fine Wines in Studio City, (818) 761-5373, www.flaskfinewines.com; Mission Wines in South Pasadena, (626) 403-9463, www.missionwines.com; Palate Food & Wine in Glendale, (818) 662-9463, www.palatefoodwine.com; Silverlake Wine in Los Angeles, (323) 662-9024, www.silverlakewine.com; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 76WINEX, www.winex.com; the Wine House in West Los Angeles, (310) 479-3731, www.winehouse.com.