An upside of summer

The iconic upside-down cake of the American imagination is a golden sponge gilded with a slick of caramel, a corona of sweetened pineapple rings and incandescent maraschino cherries. Yet as sunshiny as it may seem, it hardly qualifies as a seasonal treat since, in traditional recipes, anyway, its crowning glory comes straight from an aluminum can.

So what’s an upside-down cake fiend to do in high summer, when market stalls burst with succulent plums, tart cherries, perfumed peaches and plump apricots, and it feels downright criminal not to capitalize on such bounty? Put your nostalgic attachments aside and improvise.

Channel those cake cravings into variations on the theme that retain the idiot-proof ease and sweetness of the original, yet take inspiration not from Dole but from the summer’s avalanche of amazing fruit.

That’s what I’ve been doing since June, anyway, when a spur-of-the-moment trip through the farmers market left me with pounds of rhubarb but not even a smidgen of energy to start in on a pie crust. Instead, I chopped the pink stalks into rough chunks and dropped them -- along with a heaping cup of brown sugar, a fat knob of butter and a crushed inch or two of fresh ginger -- into my biggest cast-iron pan. I stirred and simmered and reduced until all that remained was a layer of tart, jammy compote. Then, riffing off that flash of ginger, I mixed up a spartan gingerbread batter and spread it on top. Not 40 minutes later (and with a deft inversion of the pan, of course) I had a grown-up upside-down cake that was equally at home as an accompaniment to my morning coffee as it was with a scoop of vanilla ice cream after dinner.

Happily, since that success, inspiration has appeared everywhere. A pint of cherries? They practically begged for the company of almond cake. A basket of blueberries? I let the quintessential muffin be my guide and paired them with a cinnamon crumb. The concept of the upside-down cake, after all, doesn’t exactly demand kitchen wizardry.

Undoubtedly one of the reasons it has remained a staple in the home cook’s repertoire all these years is that the only gear it requires is a mixing bowl, a skillet and a working oven. Even on hot summer days, you’ll barely break a sweat. No fuss, no muss -- and hardly any dirty dishes. Just deliciousness.

Indeed, affection for upside-down cakes knows no national boundaries.

The beloved tartes Tatins of France are close cousins, with wide slices of apples caramelized in brown sugar and butter in a copper pan, nestled in a buttery puff-pastry crust and baked. And in Brazil, a bolo de banana -- a tropical version of the cake lined with long slices of ripe banana -- is a staple in bakeries from Sao Paulo to Salvador.

Let’s experiment

Clearly, the appeal of the upside-down cake to eaters is well established. But start making them and you’ll soon discover the allure for cooks is equally evident: After one masters the basic recipe -- a warmed pan of brown sugar and butter caramel is piled first with fruit and then a cake batter, before being baked and inverted -- the permutations are nearly endless.

In fact, in the course of my experiments these last few weeks, my strategy has been to brainstorm classic flavor pairings and then try to translate them into cake form.

Fragrant peaches were tossed in honeyed syrup and found a love match with a crumbly cake spiked with a generous jigger of dark rum. Mangoes cozied up with piles of unsweetened coconut flakes and a blanket of dense golden sponge enriched with coconut milk. And apricots sliced into crescents and drizzled with caramel formed a perfect mosaic atop a rustic cornmeal cake perfumed with orange flower water.

Which is not to say there weren’t missteps. While the two make grand companions in so many other culinary iterations, the fudgy chocolate cake I rimmed with sweet cherries emerged from the pan a muddy mess. The hitch? Ultimately the decadent cake, while delicious on its own, entirely masked the subtle bite of the cherries.

Still, every error leads to a lesson learned, so added to my upside-down improviser’s handbook is this: When it comes to designing your amalgamation of fruit and crumb, always err on the side of letting the fruit star. And tart varieties that have a little extra acidity, like nectarines, blueberries, plums -- or even, in winter, lemons -- seem to wear their caramel coat especially well.

Avoid skimping

Another entry in the improviser’s handbook: Keep an eye on proportion.

Whether you choose peaches or apples, they’ll shrink considerably while baking -- so skimp at your peril. My tack is to layer and then layer some more, the goal being a nearly even ratio of crumbly cake to jammy fruit. An extra-wide cast-iron skillet (10 inches at a minimum) has long been the traditional vessel for an upside-down cake -- perhaps because even early cooks realized the aesthetic appeal of a well-proportioned specimen, and the wider the diameter of the pan, the shallower the cake.

But ultimately, to sweat over an inch or two of pan size would be contrary to the sweet, forgiving spirit of this American classic. The truth is that perfectly delicious versions of the upside-down cake can be achieved with a battery of other kitchen tools, like a 9-inch round or springform pan. (Though, of course, the need to prepare the caramel on the stovetop in a separate skillet adds significantly to the dirty-dish tally.)

Still, for klutzy cooks, the extra housework may be worth it: Springform pans transform the sometimes scary (think molten caramel, searing metal) task of inverting the cake into a cinch -- simply place a platter on top, flip, release the pan’s spring and remove the sides.

The trade-off is that the seams in the pan also love to shed rivers of sticky caramel syrup -- so unless you want to spend the remainder of the summer scrubbing your oven, don’t even think about turning on the gas without first placing the pan over a baking sheet.

After it’s done, however, the only work left to do is wait. Designed for nibbling, an upside-down cake is at its best at room temperature and, like all fresh things, on the day it’s made. But that’s hardly a hitch. After all, drenched in caramel, tempting and full of summer sunshine, these are treats whose life spans would be best measured in minutes, not hours.

food@latimes.com

--

Spiced cherry and blueberry upside-down cake

Total time: About 1 1/2hours

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: If baking in a springform pan, place a baking sheet on a rack near the bottom of the oven to catch any syrup that might drip.

3 tablespoons butter, plus 1/2 cup melted butter, divided

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1 pound sweet cherries, halved

1/2pound blueberries

1 1/2 tablespoons fresh ginger, grated to a paste

1/4 cup water

2 cups (8.5 ounces) flour

1 cup sugar

2 teaspoons baking soda

1/2teaspoon baking powder

1/2teaspoon salt

1/2teaspoon cinnamon

1/2teaspoon nutmeg

1 teaspoon allspice

1/2 teaspoon cardamom

1 cup buttermilk

1. Heat oven to 375 degrees.

2. In a large 10- to 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, melt the 3 tablespoons of butter over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and stir until dissolved, about 1 minute. Add three-fourths each of the cherries and blueberries to the skillet, along with the ginger, and stir gently so that they are evenly coated with the butter and sugar. Add the water, cover the pan, and cook until the cherries and berries have also released their juices, about 3 minutes. Uncover and cook down over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the mixture is thick, sticky and jammy, about 5 minutes. Toss in the remaining halved cherries and blueberries and stir to combine. If you are baking the cake in the skillet, set the whole thing aside to cool. If you will be baking the cake in a springform pan, scrape the cherry and berry mixture into a 9-inch round pan (line the base with parchment paper, to about one-half inch up the sides of the pan). Take care that the mixture is evenly spread to the edges of the pan.

3. In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice and cardamom. In a separate, large bowl stir together the buttermilk and the remaining one-half cup melted butter. Then, working in batches, sift the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients, mixing gently, until just smooth and combined.

4. Pour the cake batter into the pan, over the cherry and berry layer; gently smooth the batter to the edges of the pan using a knife. Bake the cake until dark golden and a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 40 minutes (a springform cake will require additional time). Allow it to cool for 10 minutes, and then run a knife around the edges of the cake to loosen it, and turn the cake over onto a large platter. (If using a springform, place a plate over the pan, flip the pan over, release the spring mold, and peel back the parchment.) The cake will be best on the day that it is made. Serve it slightly warm or at room temperature.

Each of 10 servings: 371 calories; 4 grams protein; 61 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 13 grams fat; 8 grams saturated fat; 35 mg. cholesterol; 40 grams sugar; 424 mg. sodium.

--

Apricot, olive oil and cornmeal upside-down cake

Total time: About 1 1/2 hours

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: Orange flower water can be found at cooking stores and specialty food stores, as well as online. If baking in a springform pan, place a baking sheet on a rack near the bottom of the oven to catch any syrup that might drip.

3 tablespoons butter

3/4 cup light brown sugar

8 to 10 apricots, quartered lengthwise

1 1/2 cups (6.4 ounces) flour

3/4 cup cornmeal

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

4 eggs

1 cup sugar

3/4 cup olive oil

1 orange, juice and zest

1/2 teaspoon orange flower water

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. In a large 10- to 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, melt the butter over medium heat. Stir in the brown sugar and cook, stirring constantly, until the sugar begins to bubble. Remove the pan from heat. If you are baking the cake in the skillet, set the whole thing aside to cool. If you are baking the cake in a springform pan, scrape the melted sugar into a 9-inch round pan (line the base with parchment paper, to about one-half inch up the sides of the pan). Spread the sugar mixture to the edges and set pan aside.

3. Once the sugar and butter mixture has cooled, arrange the apricot pieces in a circular pinwheel design on top of it. Scatter any remaining pieces on top of the first in a small second layer. (The apricots will cook down considerably in the oven, so you want to be generous with the fruit.)

4. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, cornmeal, baking powder and salt. In a separate large bowl, and using an electric mixer, beat the sugar and eggs until the eggs have doubled in volume and the mixture is pale and golden, 3 to 5 minutes.

5. Working in small batches and alternating with the oil, sift the dry ingredients into the wet ingredients: Begin by adding just a bit of the dry ingredients and stir until just combined, then add a bit of the olive oil and stir until just combined, and so on, until all of the ingredients are incorporated. Stir in the orange juice, orange zest and orange flower water. Scrape and smooth the batter into the prepared pan so that it covers the pinwheel of apricots.

6. Bake the cake until it is golden and springy to the touch and a knife or toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean, about 35 minutes (a springform cake will require additional time). Allow the cake to cool for 5 minutes. Then, if using a skillet, place a large plate over the top and carefully flip the pan so that the cake inverts onto the plate with the apricots on top. There may be some excess caramel that dribbles over the edge -- take care not to burn yourself. (If using a springform, place a plate over the pan, flip over the pan, release the spring mold and peel back the parchment.) The cake will be best on the day it is made. Serve it slightly warm or at room temperature.

Each of 10 servings: 474 calories; 6 grams protein; 65 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 22 grams fat; 5 grams saturated fat; 94 mg. cholesterol; 40 grams sugar; 365 mg. sodium.

--

Mango coconut upside-down cake

Total time: About 1 1/2 hours

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: If baking in a springform pan, place a baking sheet on a rack near the bottom of the oven to catch any syrup that might drip.

3 firm, ripe mangoes (preferably Haitian)

3 tablespoons butter, plus 1/2 cup (1 stick) butter at room temperature, divided

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

1 vanilla bean, split and scraped

1/2 cup unsweetened coconut flakes

2 cups (8.5 ounces) flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground cardamom

1/2 teaspoon allspice

1 1/4 cups coconut milk

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Peel the mangoes. Holding each mango upright, cut away the flesh from both sides of the pit in broad lengthwise slices. Cut those slices again, lengthwise, into three-fourths-inch-thick pieces. Each mango should yield 6 to 8 pieces. Set aside.

3. In a large 10- to 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, melt the 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat; then add the brown sugar, stirring until melted, smooth and incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat. If you are baking your cake in the skillet, spread the sugar mixture to the edges and set the pan aside to cool. If you are baking your cake in a springform pan, spread the melted sugar into a 9-inch round springform pan. (Line the base of the pan with parchment paper, to about one-half inch up the sides of the pan.) After the caramel mixture has cooled, arrange the mango slices tightly side by side in a radiating circle in the pan, so that the surface of the pan is entirely covered. Scatter any remaining mango on top of the first layer in a small second layer. (The fruit will cook down considerably in the oven, so you will want to be generous with it.)

4. In a large mixing bowl, beat the remaining one-half cup butter until pale. Add sugar and continue mixing until pale and fluffy. Add eggs one at a time; mix well to combine. Stir in the vanilla and coconut flakes.

5. In another large bowl, combine flour, baking powder, salt, cardamom and allspice. Stir with a fork to incorporate. Then, working in batches and alternating with the coconut milk, mix the dry ingredients into the egg mixture: Begin by adding a bit of the dry ingredients and stir until just combined, then add a bit of the coconut milk and stir until just combined, and so on, until all the ingredients are incorporated.

6. Spoon and spread the batter into the pan so that the mangoes are evenly covered. Bake the cake until it is springy and golden and a knife inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes (a springform cake will require additional time).

7. Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes. Then, if using a skillet, place a large plate over the top and carefully flip the pan so that the cake inverts onto the plate with the mango on top. (If using a springform pan, place a plate over the pan, flip the pan over, release the spring mold, and peel back the parchment.) The cake will be best on the day that it is made. Serve it slightly warm or at room temperature.

Each of 10 servings: 458 calories; 5 grams protein; 62 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 23 grams fat; 16 grams saturated fat; 76 mg. cholesterol; 40 grams sugar; 240 mg. sodium.

--

Peach upside-down rum cake

Total time: About 1 1/2 hours

Servings: 8 to 10

Note: If baking in a springform pan, place a baking sheet on a rack near the bottom of the oven to catch any syrup that might drip.

2 pounds peaches (about 5 large), peeled

1 lemon, juiced (about 3 tablespoons)

3 tablespoons butter, plus 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter, at room temperature, divided

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1/4 cup honey

1 3/4 cups (7.5 ounces) flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup sugar

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon orgeat syrup (or almond extract)

3/4 cup dark rum

1. Heat the oven to 350 degrees.

2. Cut the peaches lengthwise into one-half-inch slices. Place the slices in a medium bowl, drizzle with lemon juice, and set aside.

3. In a large 10- to 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, melt 3 tablespoons butter over medium heat. Add the brown sugar and stir until melted and smooth, then add the honey. Lower the heat and add the peach slices, and stir until they are glossy, slightly soft and well-coated with the honey-sugar mixture, about 2 minutes. Remove the pan from heat. If you are baking the cake in the skillet, spread the peach and sugar mixture in a thick layer to the edges and set the pan aside to cool. If you are baking the cake in a springform pan, scrape and spread the peach and caramel mixture into a 9-inch round pan (line the base with parchment paper, to about one-half inch up the sides of the pan).

4. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt. In a separate large bowl, using an electric mixer, cream the remaining butter and the sugar until it is pale and fluffy. Add the eggs, one egg at a time, and the orgeat syrup and beat for a minute until well combined. Next, working in batches and alternating with the rum, add the flour mixture to the butter mixture. Begin with a bit of the dry ingredients and stir until just combined, then add a splash of the rum and stir until just combined, and so on -- until all the ingredients are incorporated.

5. Dollop the batter into the prepared pan and smooth it as near as you can to the edges so that it covers the peaches. (Don’t worry if it seems a little thick; it will fill in as it bakes.) Bake until the cake is golden and a knife inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 45 minutes. (A springform cake will require additional time.)

6. Cool the cake in the pan for 10 minutes. If using a skillet, place a large plate over the top and carefully flip the pan so that the cake inverts onto the plate with the peaches on top. If using a springform pan, place a plate over the top of the pan, flip the pan over, release the spring mold, and peel back the parchment. Serve at room temperature.

Each of 10 servings: 401 calories; 4 grams protein; 62 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 12 grams fat; 7 grams saturated fat; 70 mg. cholesterol; 44 grams sugar; 175 mg. sodium.