Letters: Everyone remembers their first time in Paris

Editor’s note: Chris Erskine’s Aug. 22 story, “The First Time I Saw Paris,” elicited passionate reader response. We have a full column of letters.

We were in Paris in June and agree with Erskine’s article but want to add to the “musts.” Besides looking at the Moulin Rouge, try a walking tour of the Montmartre area on the hill above it.

And take the train to Versailles; it’s a short ride and a fabulous place to go for a local day trip.

Judy Herbst, Beverly Hills

I just returned in June from my second trip to Paris and read the Paris piece with horror.

It would be helpful if you gave first-time visitors better guidance. For example:

Learn a few words of French. The French expect a greeting whenever you enter a shop, bar or restaurant, and they respect you for respecting that.

Dress up a little more than at home. Don’t wear socks, sneakers and shorts unless you want to stick out like a tourist. Women should sport capri-length pants instead and nice shoes or sandals.

Harry’s American Bar? We went one June afternoon and got the worst service of anywhere in Paris. They were rude and we did not feel welcome. Go to Willy’s Wine Bar instead.

The Champs left him cold? I have no words for this. Especially the beautiful walk from the Place de la Concorde past the trees. What about the Publicis Drugstore near the Arc de Triomphe? What an adorable place and experience.

Skip the Place de la Concorde? I just don’t understand. And it would do them good to learn some history about it.

What about the Marais district? The Luxembourg Gardens and St.-Germain area?

I have to wonder about everything I read in the Travel section now, because this was not the Paris I love.

Elizabeth Tetzlaff, Tustin

I fell in love with Paris in 1972 and have been back more times than I can count. Erskine missed two of my favorite places: the exquisite Gothic chapel Sainte-Chapelle on Île de la Cité and Jim Morrison’s grave in Père Lachaise.

Karen Ulvila, Del Mar

In answer to Erskine’s opening question about “Where does a first-timer start?” I suggest seeing a travel agent who is a France specialist. As someone who has traveled to Paris for many years, I can assure you that a phone call to an expert will save you time, money and disappointment.

Mark Anderson, Adventure Vacations Inc., La Jolla

Erskine’s article was spot-on. He captured the essence of this grand city with true wit. The last time my wife and I visited Paris, we decided to not do any more tourist things but simply enjoy the sidewalk cafes and the people parades and the book stalls on the Seine.

I think the city was summed up best in one of the tour books I bought. The foreword said: “Thank you for buying our book. Now we suggest that you close the book and simply walk down any street in Paris.” Best tour book I ever bought.

Lindsay Nielson, Ventura

Next time, take your wife; hold her hand as you stroll the Champs-Élysées. I guarantee you a different reaction.

Warren Cereghino, Pacific Palisades

August in Paris? Didn’t you remember that the song says “April in Paris”? Why do you think all the Parisians leave for the entire month of August? Too darn hot. And too darn crowded.

Susan Fisher, Pacific Palisades

One item that made our family trip to Paris in August 2007 so “easy” and enjoyable was the museum pass (www.en.parismuseumpass.com). We were able to use it to avoid the lines at most of the museums (including the Louvre) and many historic locations. We never waited more than 10 minutes. It’s sold online, but we bought ours as soon as we arrived in Paris.

Tracey Windes, Manhattan Beach

As a loyal reader of your column in the Home section, “Man of the House,” I was alarmed to read that you had visited Paris. But of course, you loved Paris, as everyone does, and gave a very entertaining account.

Thanks for keeping us so amused and lightening up our lives.

Evan Hosie, Manhattan Beach

I have never been more entertained by the written word. Your wit and droll sense of humor will surely tempt people to follow your traveling footsteps.

Please keep writing because you are a tongue-in-cheek breath of fresh air.

Lynne Grijalva, Canoga Park

You hear so much about how rude the French are, but I’ve never found them any more abrupt or rude than what you’d experience if you were visiting L.A. and all you spoke was French.

Bob Bolinger, Irvine

On my first trip to Paris, I innocently said, “I don’t have to go to the Eiffel Tower. I know what it looks like and can probably see it from other venues there.” Of course I did go and was amazed. No one ever told me how huge it was! Thanks for a good read.

Laurie Goffman, Palm Desert

Ahhhhh, Paris, the eternal romantic city. May it ever be thus.

Once you see Paris you will never be the same, am I right? I have so many memories of Paris that your article was able to evoke. Too bad about the Louvre. Go off season next time; it will help. But take warm clothes because in off-season even the hotel room doesn’t get truly warm. I can remember sitting on top of the radiator in some hotel rooms and not even then getting my seat warm.

Thanks for a fun, vicarious trip to Paris with you.

Eleanor Finney, Laguna Niguel

Having visited Paris only once, I am hardly the expert. But I tell anyone who asks for suggestions to visit Sainte-Chapelle. The glass artwork is absolutely amazing and memorable.

Phillip Hain, Glendale

The piece on Paris was well balanced: tourist sights, museums, bistros. He might have mentioned something the Parisians avoid acknowledging: Everyone who jumps from the bridges is insane.

Art Cohen, Los Angeles

Your article was right on. We have enjoyed the city on many visits during the past 30 years. It is a never-ending enjoyment. The article should enlighten your readers that it is not necessary to spend a fortune to enjoy and understand one of the world’s great cities.

Carol Marver, San Marino

Paris is one of my favorite places, so Chris Erskine’s article on his first trip to Paris was one of the first things I read. I loved his descriptions and insights. I agree with all of his suggestions, especially for a first trip, and many of them for repeat trips as well, with one exception. It is not necessary to spend time on the Champs-Élysées because you will see nothing there but other Americans eating overpriced food and shopping for things they could buy back home. There is lots of local shopping in the different neighborhoods of Paris, which makes for great walks as well. If as a first-timer, you must take a quick look at the Champs-Élysées, get away from it as fast as you can.

Dina Cramer, Manhattan Beach

Your article was very witty yet not so witty as to be unhelpful. I loved your line, “Despite their help, I eventually found it.” So true. I find in Europe that directions are fruitless yet entertaining. In Italy, everything is “la la” with hands gesturing wildly in general directions. And your English being worse than your fractured high school French made me chuckle.

The article was particularly timely as I am heading to Paris. I will take your article with me, which is probably the highest compliment I can give.

Anne Rose, Travel Designer, Celebrate-Travel Inc., Cameron Park

Your article was right on. I enjoyed the article and info presented. Thanks for that. We are planning a one-week Paris trip next year and a seven-day river cruise in France before that.

Find you to be very versatile, and again I really enjoy what you write. Keep up the good work.

Mel Moss, Northridge

I was going to write you after I read your take on the French in the World Cup [France’s Pain Is Just So . . . French, Sports, July 7] (which practically left me in laughing tears) but didn’t. I just read your article about your trip to Paris, and now I have to. I lived in France for the better part of my life (married to a Frenchman) and find your observations of the French spot on and so, so funny. Bravo and continuez!

If you ever go back (and pretty soon you’ll probably find yourself being offered the L.A. Times ambassadorship!), please do not miss the little Italian ice cream shop near the top of the Rue Mouffetard in the 5th arrondissement. It’s called Gelati d’Alberto. It’s a tiny shop with about 20 of the most alluring ice creams you’ve ever seen, a line of (it’s-so-good-for-once-I’ll-shut-up-and-be-patient) patrons up the street and around the corner, and surly servers who have been trained to make the most beautiful rose-shaped dollops of ice cream. Note: Do not try to get a child-size scoop if you are not a child; you will be smote.

Cindy Desmet, La Mesa

We’ve had the good fortune to visit Paris several times over the past few years. My comment to you would be that every time you visit that magical city can be like a first-time visit and just as amazing. Four years ago, we stayed at a very nice and very modestly priced hotel in the Latin Quarter. We asked the woman at the desk if she could direct us to an Internet cafe so we could check our e-mail. (Part of the charm of this place was that it had zero modern electronic amenities.) She said to go up one block, turn right, go another half a block, and you’ll see the Internet cafe. Along the way we noticed a small marble plaque on the entry to an apartment building, which said, “ Ernest Hemingway lived in this building from 1921 to 1925.” In other words, I believe this is where he was when he gathered material for “A Moveable Feast.” If you were so inclined, you could cry.

Geoff Case, Sherman Oaks

While I was reading your article about Paris tonight, a video about the Eiffel Tower ran on Classic Arts Showcase. I enjoyed both. You brighten any section of the paper you are in.

Recently at the De Young in San Francisco, I saw more than a hundred of the Impressionist paintings on loan from Musée d’Orsay.

Owen Simon, Sherman Oaks

Really enjoyed your article. I’ve been to Paris a few times when I was younger and am thinking of planning another trip next year. Your writing style is really down to earth and enjoyable to read. A lot of travel articles end up being pretentious, so I was preparing myself for the worst when I saw that it was Paris. I was pleasantly surprised when I read yours because it was so refreshing.

Mark Trott, Los Angeles

Your piece on Paris is wonderful, lyrical, literary. Very enjoyable. A treat to read. Thank you … not for the commentary on Paris but just for something so well written.

William Gerrity, New York

Your story was entertaining as well as informative. I now know I want to go back, this time for a stay instead of a tour stop-over.

Mark Fivecoat, Palm Springs

Totally enjoyed your Sunday Times article about Paris. It brought back so many memories of the two times I spent there. Our favorite mode of transportation was the water bus. We bought tickets down on the Seine (in a lot of places) and the water bus took us all the way from Notre Dame to the Eiffel Tower and back. Thanks again for a really neat article.

Kathy Sommo, Los Angeles