A home to roost: Amid pandemic, this Atwater Village chicken restaurant is thriving

It’s likely no one would prefer to open a business during one of the most challenging times in history. However, when Chicken N Chips, an Australian-style rotisserie chicken restaurant, enlivened a sleepy stretch of Fletcher Dr. in Atwater Village at the beginning of 2020, its founders had done exactly that.

For manager Christopher Jones and head chef Jourdan “Red Beard” Davis, Covid-19 represented a beginning, not an end. Their business was about to face a challenge that has since toppled long standing restaurants and affected every facet of our daily life.

And, to their surprise, they didn’t just survive -- they thrived.

“It was scary,” said Jones of the opening. “It’s new thing after new thing. New restaurant, new employees, new community, new pandemic, new way of doing business.”

While a takeout/delivery business model let them remain open, the real recipe for success lies in the dynamism and positivity displayed by Jones and Davis, creating a homestyle dining experience with fresh food and a focus on serving the neighborhood.

“I don’t think there’s ever been anything like Chicken N Chips in this area,” Jones said of Atwater Village, an Eastside neighborhood of gentrified and working-class avenues. They created an even stronger connection to the area by hiring locals, even if they didn’t have prior experience in restaurants.

“The staff that we have, we trained them. They didn’t know how to cook. (Davis) taught them,” said Jones.

“It challenged me to be a better chef, because I had to not only teach them my recipes I created from scratch, but I’m having to teach you basic, not even culinary skills,” added Davis. “To see growth

and maturity ... it’s amazing.”

Another facet of success stemmed from the nation’s reckoning with institutionalized racism, the Black Lives Matter movement. In the doldrums of the pandemic, Chicken N Chips was mentioned on a list of black-owned businesses, creating a long line of hungry supporters. Jones credits the boost as helping to save the fledgling restaurant. “It was literally like a miracle,” he said.

This success only furthers the sights and smells coming out of the kitchen, where the namesake meal consists of a deliciously moist rotisserie bird, hand-cut fries, two smoky gravies for dipping and perfect lumps of dressing. The concept harkens from Adelaide, where it’s a ubiquitous street food.

While Jones, an experienced hospitality manager, took charge of setting up the kitchen, Davis, a head chef who has run kitchens nationwide, added an American twist to the Aussie staple. “When the concept initially hit me, I was thinking, ‘Ooh, Thanksgiving,’” said Davis, tweaking details to fit L.A.’s never-winter climate and attitude.

The BBQ Fried, a sandwich generating five stars from reviews and thumbs-up selfies from influencers and celebrities, is popping up on lists of best chicken sandwiches even in a city rife with the concept. Starting with their slow cooked rotisserie chicken, a light fry and a homemade barbecue sauce accentuate the moist meat, creating lines of repeat customers, even expat Australians.

This success has allowed the pair to take a breath and consider the future. Davis excitedly touted a coming brunch menu and a socially distant patio setup. “That was my vision for the neighborhood,” he said. “I’ve always been a brunch chef.”

Even as the buzz grows, Jones listed Atwater Village residents as among his favorite customers. As they were opening, he often saw a pregnant woman stroll by. “Now the babies are walking,” he said. “They’re twins, they’re two little girls, and I remember when you guys were in your mom’s belly. This community is a very family-oriented community. People care about Atwater Village. That’s the best part of having this restaurant in this part of town.”

Find Chicken N Chips on their Instagram page: @chickennchips