At the Calvin Klein show on Thursday afternoon, designer Franciso Costa mixed street wear with nomadic-looking knits for a look that hinted at ‘90s-era grunge, particularly with every model wearing Doc Marten-style flat utility boots.
Fashion “It girl” Lupita Nyong’o was front and center, donning her nerdy-chic glasses to get a better look. And so was Naomi Watts, looking pristine in cool blue, even as the snow and rain raged outside on the last day of New York Fashion Week.
Key pieces included cozy menswear-inspired overcoats in fuzzy mohair with quirky touches, like naive collars and colorful glass beaded safety pin closures. Costa explored the idea of knit dressing, pairing elongated sweaters and mid-calf skirts with fringe or hand-painted stripe details. And gauzy black or white nylon dresses with sheer insets and glass chain belts had an edge that young Hollywood girls should eat up.
The collection was a complete 180 from Costa’s usual brand of all-black sleek sophistication, with a colorful palette to boot, and it wasn’t an unwelcome change.