The restaurant is owned by John Huang, who until recently owned Hunan Seafood. The illustrated menus, repurposed from the former establishment, are still labeled Hunan Seafood on their covers. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
The restaurant does not serve alcohol, so the next best thing to a cold beer is to keep plenty of ice water on hand. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Tai Pai chicken is served cold. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Toss fried crab with garlic, ginger and hot pepper. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Mao’s braised pork and garlic is soft enough to collapse at the touch of a chopstick. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Chewy, spicy lamb ribs are fried with garlic and lots of Sichuan peppercorn. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
Hunan Mao on Valley Boulevard is open daily. (Gina Ferazzi / Los Angeles Times)
