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The spretzel at Cooks County. (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
Pickled shrimp with carrots, caper berries, chile and cocktail sauce. (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
The steamed mussels and clams with shaved fennel, white wine, roasted tomato and garlic toast. (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
The fried cardoons served with Parmesan, sage and aioli. (Jenn Harris / Los Angeles Times)
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Jenn Harris is a columnist for the Food section and host of “The Bucket List” show. She has a BA in literary journalism from UC Irvine and an MA in journalism from USC. Follow her @Jenn_Harris_.
