Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong
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Counter Intelligence: Kang Ho-dong Baekjeong

Portions of galbi beef are cut into smaller pieces as it cooks on a tabletop burner. Beaten egg and corn with cheese are also arrayed around the burners. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
Dosirak, consisting of kimchi, a sunny-side-up egg, black beans, sweetened dried anchovies and steamed rice, is served in a kid’s lunchbox that is shaken before serving. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
If you go to Kang Hodong Baekjeong, above, put your name down then head over to White Cafe & Karaoke across the street. Rent a room for an hour and spend it belting out your own renditions of “Lady Marmalade,” “Don’t Stop Believn’” and “Billie Jean.” If you get thirsty, walk back across the street to the Bohemian restaurant for a couple bottles of soju to prep your appetite for the meat overload that’s about to happen. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
Prime boneless short rib. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
Christiane Lee feeds her son Dale, 6, a piece of ribeye steak while having dinner with her husband, Daniel, and daughter Angela, 18. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
Cardboard cutouts of Korean celebrity Kang Ho-dong, a former wrestler and now a comedian, are propped in front of the entrance. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
Phil Heo, a waiter, makes his way with side dishes. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)