Potato pulp with brown butter, bonito, onion soubise and Salers cheese as served at Trois Mec. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
Wine is poured at Orsa & Winston. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
Satsuki rice with geoduck chowder and uni at Orsa & Winston. (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)
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Wexler’s Deli inside Grand Central Market. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
The O.G. pastrami with mustard on rye at Wexler’s Deli. (Jay L. Clendenin / Los Angeles Times)
The dining room at Night + Market Song. (Anne Cusack / Los Angeles Times)
The song-moo yang mom khon dish at Night + Market Song. (Wally Skalij / Los Angeles Times)
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Hiroyuki Naruke, executive chef at Q restaurant. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)
At Q restaurant, clockwise from top left, are Saba-mackerel sushi, chutoro-medium fatty tuna, shima aji-Japanese premium mackerel, and akami-marinated lean tuna. (Mel Melcon / Los Angeles Times)