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Kimchi-stuffed dates and more modern Korean small plates coming to Gaji downtown

Whole allium-stuffed loup de mer with a glazed skin of Red Boat fish sauce caramel and pineapple fish sauce.
(Cathy Chaplin / For The Times)
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Gaji, serving contemporary Korean cuisine, is the latest restaurant to join downtown’s bustling 7th Street dining corridor that includes Bottega Louie, SugarFish and Mo-Chica, among others. A small plates-focused dinner menu is set to launch by the end of June, with brunch, “express service” lunch and late-night offerings following soon after.

Gaji, which means “tree branch” in Korean, is “an ode to nature, a respite from the concrete jungle that surrounds it,” explains chef Minh Phan, formerly of Hollywood’s Beachwood Café and the pop-up Mignardises at the Farmer’s Kitchen.

An eye toward balance and calm is reflected throughout the restaurant, from the ambience to service to the menu. The 1,500-square-foot, 60-seat space was designed by owner Linda Shin using a palette of natural hues, clean lines and modern materials. Patio seating will be added later this summer.

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Chef Phan’s “old soul, new food” ethos brings an inspired take on Asian comfort food. Expect bright, surprising combinations of flavors, such as dates stuffed with kimchi.

“We put a modern, fun spin on kimchi,” Phan says. Bautista Family honey dates are stuffed with kimchi “made by a grandma in Orange County” and paired with house-made apple-mustard, fresh grated Granny Smiths topped with kimchi vinaigrette and wild mustard flowers.

Additional small plates include furikake-molasses cornbread served with togarashi creme fraiche butter and duck rillettes with a ginger-satsuma marmalade. Generously portioned “big plates” include rice ravioli filled with beef cheeks in a pho broth, as well as a whole allium-stuffed loup de mer with a glazed skin of Red Boat fish sauce caramel.

Gaji, 523 W. 7th St., Los Angeles, (213) 243-0780.

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