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Newsletter: In the kitchen: Rethinking barley

Sesame barley bowl.

Sesame barley bowl.

(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)
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Consider barley, and your thoughts probably turn to comforting bowls of beef and barley stew and other long-simmered dishes — you know, the kind perfectly suited to cold winter nights. But there’s so much more to this grain, and the spring produce turning up in markets makes for perfect inspiration. We have tips and recipe ideas.

And if you’ve strolled through your farmers market in the past week, you’ve probably noticed the beautiful bunches of asparagus at the stands. Whether you prefer thin, tender spears or jumbo stalks, we have some great recipe ideas.

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We’ve also tracked down a new fish sauce-based hot sauce — umami and spice together, conveniently packaged in a bottle. You’ll no doubt be adding it to everything.

And if you were a fan of the spaghetti and meatballs at the historic restaurant Dominick’s, which closed this past December after an almost 70-year run, we have the recipe so you can enjoy a little history at home.

Noelle Carter

Elevate simple barley to a whole other taste level

Barley porridge with mushrooms, herbs and poached egg.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)

Barley is the oldest cultivated cereal, and you probably think of it as your grandmother’s grain: comforting and nurturing. But there’s so much more to this grain than thickening a winter stew. Consider the “Things in a Bowl” trend so popular right now, combining the grain with fresh greens, the mixture flavored with a Japanese-inspired sesame dressing. Or perhaps try it in a savory porridge, or as the basis for fruit and nut bars when you’re looking for an on-the-go snack. Check out more ideas, along with recipes.

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Asparagus is in season. We have 8 great recipes

Asparagus is in season at Los Angeles-area farmers markets.

Asparagus is in season at Los Angeles-area farmers markets.

(Amy Scattergood / Los Angeles Times)

One of the sure signs that spring is upon us is that beautiful bunches of both slender and jumbo asparagus are hitting the markets. Use the delicate spears quickly blanched and tossed with salads, or add last minute to cook with a pasta or rice dish. Thicker asparagus works well roasted or grilled. We share tips for using and have compiled 8 of our favorite recipes to use for inspiration next time you snag a bunch or two at the market.

What we’re into: Nam Prik

Nam Prik is a new hot sauce made in Torrance by senior financial-analyst-turned-hot-sauce-maker Erick Yi. The sauce was developed from Yi’s aunt’s recipe, and combines fish sauce, vinegar, garlic, chile and sugar. It packs a punch but isn’t mouth-numbing, with bright flavor. Deputy Food editor Jenn Harris wonders could this be the new Sriracha? Maybe.

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Dominick’s spaghetti and meatballs

Dominick's spaghetti and meatballs.
Dominick’s spaghetti and meatballs.
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times )

There were many reasons to love Dominick’s, the legendary Italian American institution in West Hollywood for close to 70 years. The restaurant was most recently run by Warner Ebbink and Brandon Boudet, who also served as chef. Among the popular dishes, Boudet could turn out a comforting bowl of spaghetti and meatballs like nobody’s business: the massive meatballs a perfect mixture of beef and pork, and the red sauce thick and rich, with a flavor that came only from a long simmer. We have the recipe.

Start your day with this Dutch apple walnut bread recipe

Recipe: 1881 Coffee Cafe's Dutch apple walnut loaf
(Glenn Koenig / Los Angeles Times)

One of our most popular recipes at the moment, this simple quick bread is light and fluffy, almost cake-like in texture. Bits of apple and walnut are suspended throughout, and the loaf is only slightly sweet with a gentle tang from buttermilk. Don’t forget the crumbly topping, fragrant with notes of cinnamon. Enjoy a thick slice with a cup of coffee, and it’s a perfect way to start your day.

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