Jonathan Gold reviews P.Y.T.

Chef’s salad with LALA farm lettuces, daily vegetable selection and walnut marigold dressing at P.Y.T. in downtown Los Angeles.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Nov. 10, 2016 12:20 PM PT

Potato chipati bread at P.Y.T.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Salt-baked turnip wrapped in hoja santa with shiso chimichurri. (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times )

P.Y.T. is carved out of the southern end of Ledlow, also a Josef Centeno restaurant. (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

The bar at P.Y.T.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

P.Y.T. has a worn mosaic-tile floor and high ceilings.

(Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)