Breakfast burritos. Right after “here’s your coffee,” these are the most reassuring words any of us can hope to hear in the morning.
It’s a subject taken quite seriously at Burrito Bomba, where owners Gurgen Martikyan and Eric Yepiskoposyan put their own spin on breakfast burritos, just off a North Hollywood roadside.
Tucked into a barbed wire-crowned lot among the stone and tile showrooms, storage depots and auto body shops that line Sherman Way where it meets the 170 Freeway, the duo launched Bomba to support themselves while attending school.
While you can order burritos stuffed with beef, bacon and vegetarian options, the specialty at Bomba is the breakfast burrito full of filet mignon and bacon.
Few things are as controversial in Southern California as the contents of a breakfast burrito. So Martikyan and Yepiskoposyan sampled different offerings throughout L.A. to develop their own recipe.
“We wanted to do something different from any breakfast burrito spot in L.A.,” says Martikyan. “Before opening, we made around 300-400 samples to get to our final product. Every day we’re up at 4 in the morning scrambling 400 eggs, cutting the steak, making the pico de gallo.”
“We’re running on real sleep deprivation,” says Yepiskoposyan.
To make Bomba’s signature burrito, the guys griddle thick-cut, applewood-smoked bacon and cuts of a five-spice-marinated filet mignon. Then they smash a bronzed jumble of fried potatoes sprinkled with their Cajun seasoning before covering it with a blend of four cheeses and dousing everything in egg batter.
As the egg begins to set, they hack it all up, the staccato clang of spatulas drowning out all other noise in the lot.
Everything comes off the grill and gets rolled into a basil-tomato tortilla with pico de gallo and a pointedly spicy yellow aioli made with a chile the owners import from Brazil.
The now complete burrito gets a final kiss from the grill before it’s handed over.
The owners, who both grew up in the San Fernando Valley and have been friends since high school, also have a limited, word-of-mouth burrito based on Armenian pamidorov dzvadzex, the egg-and-tomato dish that they both consider a breakfast favorite, only made with pico de gallo.
Bomba itself is an Armenian-Russian colloquialism, the owners explain, that people use to describe things they like such as cars and food, much like people here use “bomb.” In time, they hope the term comes into more widespread usage.
“We’re going to take this as far as we can,” Martikyan says. “Hopefully, things go well and we can move from streetside to a restaurant, to a couple of locations across the country to worldwide.”
Burrito Bomba is open from 7:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. on weekdays and weekends from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m.