A chilled carrot soup is lit up with vaudovan (a French curry powder), a scribble of goat’s milk yogurt and fried mint leaves. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
Chef Kris Morningstar has refined and rethought the menu. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
Shaved raw clams are spread over the plate like carpaccio and drizzled with citrus. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
A small drawer holds silverware at every table place at Ray’s. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
Squab is wrapped in a lacy caul fat, then served sliced with fava beans, pearl onions and salsify in a reduction of Madeira with truffles. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
Wild red king salmon confit is cooked rare and set off by asparagus and a black sesame sauce. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
Vegetable dishes are treated with respect. It’s tempting to order two as a main course. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
The dining room of Ray’s offers a view of the Resnick Exhibition Pavilion. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
An individual cherry crostata comes with artfully folded crust. (Lawrence K. Ho / Los Angeles Times)
