Bistro LQ in Los Angeles offers a main course of partridge with huckleberries. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
Razor clams with corn relish. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
Pistachio pana cotta, foreground, and crab wrapped in smoked salmon. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
A chocolate hazelnut dessert. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
Bistro LQ chef Laurent Quenioux in the kitchen. (Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)
Restaurant manager Eric Bouty, right, brings a selection of cheese to Bistro LQ diners. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
Newly opened Bistro LQ restaurant in Los Angeles. (Stefano Paltera / For The Times)
