Nose-to-tail cooking at b.o.s. restaurant in Little Tokyo

Grilled miso heart served with king oyster mushrooms and yuzi miso vinaigrette.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Carpaccio of tongue, served with pea sprouts, avocado, pickled shallots and issan dressing.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Oxtail ravioli, with oxtail jus, tomato powder and micro vegetables.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Sweetbread tacos, with salsa verde, pico de gallo, Sriracha sour cream and pickled radish.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

A look inside b.o.s.’ dining room. The restaurant occupies a space in the Honda Plaza at the east end of Little Tokyo, sharing a parking lot with Sushi Gen, the shabu-shabu den Kagaya and the ramen parlor Men Oh Tokushima.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

Customers sit under a cow-shaped mural.   (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)

David Bartnes prepares food on a grill. The chef, a co-owner of b.o.s., is a veteran of hotel restaurants in Asia.  (Katie Falkenberg / Los Angeles Times)