When prepared correctly, as it is at the Factory Kitchen, focaccia di Recco is a marvelous thing, oiled dough stretched thin as filo and folded around milky, tart crescenza cheese. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Ortaggi all’agro (steamed kale, green chard, spinach, shallot and Ligurian olive oil). (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Barberosse gratinate (oven baked sliced beets casserole, melted asiago). (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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Porchetta (rolled pork belly, red onion, carrots, fennel, celery) served at Factory Kitchen in Los Angeles. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Mandilli di seta (handkerchief pasta, Ligurian almond basil pesto, fiore sardo). (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
Cannoli shells on the kitchen counter at the Factory Kitchen. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The Factory Kitchen is the first solo effort from Angelo Auriana, fresh from a couple of years at a Ligurian-style trattoria in San Francisco’s Mission District, and before that an 18-year stint as the chef at Valentino in Santa Monica, which for much of that time was regarded as the grandest Italian restaurant in town. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
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Focaccina calda di recco dough. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
A chef prepares gnocchi malfatti. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)
The Factory Kitchen is located in a minimally redecorated loft space in the downtown arts district. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times)