Locally, a small but varied selection of Picpouls

For all the variety of Picpouls de Pinet in Languedoc- Roussillon, the same names pop up over and over on restaurant wine lists and in stores, and the same is even truer in the United States. They’re not easy to find in the United States: No more than half a dozen are readily available, even online. But as a shop owner in Montpellier responded when we asked whether he had more labels in stock than those we saw on the shelf: “Un. Deux. Trois. Quatre. How many do you need?”

The following give a good sense of how wines vary.

2005 Château Saint Martin de La Garrigue Picpoul de Pinet. Minerally, citrusy but very full and rounded, with a hint of kiwi in the mouth. Available online at wineaccess.com, $13 plus shipping.

2006 Cave Les Vignobles Montagnac Picpoul de Pinet. A whiff of raspberry in the aroma and decided tartness on the palate, with a full-bodied flavor and almost walnutty finish. Available online at unionsquarewines.com, $11 plus shipping.

2006 Domaine Gaujal de Saint Bon Picpoul de Pinet (also sold as Château de Pinet). Bone dry, with an almost oceanic aroma and a very fruity but tart flavor, like a lemon Lifesaver, and a faintly lemon-butter finish. Available at the Cheese Store of Silver Lake, (323) 644-7511, cheesestoresl.com and Wine House in West L.A., (310) 479-3731, winehouse.com; about $10.

2006 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet. Bright and attractive, with lemon scents and a pleasant bitter almond finish. Available at Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 and (800) 769-4639, winex.com and Beverage Warehouse in Los Angeles, (310) 306-2822, beveragewarehouse.com; about $8.

-- Regina Schrambling