The rye-volution: Rye whiskey’s moment continues

Rye whiskey has been having a moment for more than a few years now.

According to the Distilled Spirits Council of the United States, rye whiskey volumes grew 536% from 2009 to 2014, to more than half a million 9-liter cases. As new distilling techniques and styles emerge, rye continues to evolve, offering more choices for the consumer and for bartenders eager to put their own twists on classic and modern cocktails.

In Los Angeles, you can slip into almost any craft cocktail bar and the menu likely will be sprinkled with rye drinks, not to mention at least half a dozen bottles from which to choose.

At Seven Grand in downtown Los Angeles, there are over 40 ryes on the whiskey menu.

“Since rye so often outshines other whiskeys in cocktails,” says beverage director Andrew Abrahamson, “this can be a very approachable first whiskey for those who otherwise think they don’t like the spirit. There are many non-bourbon whiskey drinkers who find rye more their style, in that it’s drier and fruitier than the often rich and sweet bourbon they’re not crazy about.”

As Abrahamson notes, bourbon is known for its sweeter profile. Scotch tends to be smoky or floral.

So what is it that makes rye different from any other whiskey style? First and foremost, it must contain at least 51% rye as the base grain. Some rye bottlings are 100% rye grain, but most are a combination of rye balanced by corn and barley.

The distillate must be aged in charred, new oak barrels, which lend some of the caramel and vanilla notes found in the spirit. The proof, or alcohol by volume of the spirit, is important too. Rye must be distilled at no more than 160 proof (80% alcohol by volume), put into the barrel for aging at no more than 125 proof and bottled at no less than 80 proof.

Beyond these basic requirements, distillers have been getting more creative, pushing boundaries that affect flavor profiles.

“There are so many — like never before — beautifully crafted variations of rye whiskey,” said Jeremy Lake, proprietor and bartender at Lost Property in Los Angeles. “I could stick with the same basic measurements in a recipe, but use a different brand and/or proof of rye and I’d come up with a different-flavored Manhattan every time.”

There are multiple styles of rye, including Pennsylvania-style, which includes more rye and a richer flavor; Maryland-style, which uses less rye and has a softer profile; and Canadian rye, which may or may not have a high rye content, thus resulting in a spicier or sweeter style.

The vast array of styles makes rye an infinitely malleable spirit that plays well with others. Lake and his team pair rye with unlikely partners, including mezcal, gin and flavored rums, because of the natural balance it brings to cocktail recipes.

Darwin Pornel, lead bartender at Faith & Flower in downtown L.A., uses rye in tandem with sparkling rosé in a brunch cocktail called the Parade Route. “The sparkling rosé does a wonderful job of softening and rounding out the aggressive and spicy tones in the rye,” Pornel said. “You get all of the flavors from the rye without the heat that sometimes turns people off.”

At the Upstairs Bar at the Ace Hotel in downtown L.A., bartender Owen Gallagher wanted to infuse rye with coffee and coconut. “We went back and forth, and this tiki-infused drink sort of revealed itself,” beverage director Dan Sabo said. “The spice of the rye sits really well as a substitute for the island allspice usually in a tiki drink. And that backbone makes rye a great base spirit and shows what made a lot of old recipes classics: Rye gives them life again in their original forms.”

Rye also has seen a boost in popularity from consumers’ increased willingness to try new spirits. “Society as a whole is becoming more aware of their palates and is more open to expanding them,” Pornel said. “So I think that opens doors to more spirits that some didn’t enjoy in the past.”

Today, rye is no longer relegated to the dusty back shelves of the bar, nor are there just one or two bottles from which to choose. The spicy spirit “is now enjoyed in every way imaginable: neat, rocks, shots, cocktails,” Lake said. “It’s a core whiskey category, here to stay.”

Budget: Rittenhouse 100 Proof Bottled-in-Bond Straight Rye

Rittenhouse is made in the Pennsylvania style by Heaven Hill Distillery in Kentucky and was one of the first ryes to be embraced by bartenders. It’s found in almost every bar as its high quality and low price made it supremely suited for mixing. The combination of overproof spirit (100 versus the usual 80) plus the notes of spice, fruit and caramel, make this spirit terrific in cocktails. An 80-proof version also is available. About $20, at K&L Wine Merchants.

Mid-range: Michter’s US #1 Single Barrel Straight Rye Whiskey

Originally distilled in Pennsylvania and now distilled in Kentucky, Michter’s demonstrates how rye can be both tough and gentle, combining a peppery kick up front before revealing its vanilla and caramel notes. Every bottle comes from a single barrel. If you’re doubtful about rye, this bottle most likely will win you over; if you’re already a whiskey drinker, you’ll find this one infinitely flexible. $39.99 at K&L Wine Merchants.

High-end: High West Rendezvous Rye

Rendezvous blends two straight rye whiskeys, one old (a 16-year-old with 80% rye) and one young (a 6-year-old with 95% rye). The high rye content ensures a lot of spice, but is balanced by cinnamon, dried fruit and molasses notes. The distillery, located in Utah, purchases its whiskeys from various distilleries and then custom blends each product. About $60, at Wally’s Wine and Spirits.