A tasting of some of the new vermouths

Though the East Coast can boast a couple of producers, such as Uncouth Vermouth and Atsby, much of the new action is on the West Coast. I tasted these vermouths neat and on the rocks, fascinated by how different they were and also by how difficult it is to untangle the flavors. They’re also changelings. The initial impression can give way to a completely different impression a few minutes later. Straight out of the bottle, vermouths are as complex as any cocktail. Just add a big ice cube, sip slowly and settle in for a workout for every one of your taste buds. Some of these may be hard to find; Binny’s Beverage Depot in Chicago is a good place to look, www.binnys.com.

The dry

Vya Extra-Dry, California, $20; www.vya.com. Finely tuned, fresh and cool in tone; recalls a mountain meadow bright with wildflowers beside a shady brook. Crazy, I know, but this stuff gives you visions.

Vya Whisper Dry, California, $20; www.vya.com. Tastes of cool cucumber and the memory of lemon; so subtle, it really is a whisper. Finishes very dry. Perfect for a martini.

Hammer & Tongs “Sac’ Résine,” Oregon, $35; www.htvermouth.com. Unique: intriguing flavors of citrus rind, flowers and exotic spices with a dark thread of bitterness. Magic.

Imbue Bittersweet Vermouth, Oregon, $28; www.gomiximbue.com. A voluptuous texture and exquisite balance make this vermouth with its notes of lemon drop and mysterious botanicals ideal for sipping. Or, if you must, add a splash of gin.

Ransom Dry Vermouth, Oregon, $29; (503) 876-5022; www.ransomspirits.com. Suave and silky, this vermouth comes across as green and cool as a forest glade. Flavors are so integrated, no one botanical sticks out of the blend. A class act.

The sweet

Vya Sweet, California, $20; www.vya.com. This golden brown vermouth pulls back on the sweetness to let flavors of coffee, licorice and more come forward, tempered by nuanced bitterness. Brilliant in a Negroni.

Imbue Petal & Thorn Apéritif Wine, Oregon, $28; www.gomiximbue.com. Pale peach, the sweet stays in the background, ceding the foreground to drifts of baking spices, balanced out with a nervy bitterness reminiscent of grapefruit rind.

Hammer & Tongs L’Afrique, Oregon, $35; www.htvermouth.com. Another fascinating vermouth from winemaker Patrick Taylor, this one with Syrah as a base. Though the aroma signals sweet, L’Afrique finishes dry with haunting traces of myriad botanicals. For maximum pleasure, drink it neat.