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Newsletter: In the Kitchen: Not feeling crabby this year

Imported Dungeness crabs are displayed for sale at Fisherman's Wharf, Thursday, Nov. 5, in San Francisco.

Imported Dungeness crabs are displayed for sale at Fisherman’s Wharf, Thursday, Nov. 5, in San Francisco.

(Eric Risberg / Associated Press)
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The holidays and all of their attendant excitement are approaching so quickly we almost can’t stand it. But amid all that excitement, there’s some really bad news. This week we’ll give you the details on what might go down as the saddest December ever, but we’ll also give you some tips on how to deal with the sorrow.

— Russ Parsons

First the bad news

At my house and many more like mine, Dungeness crab for the holidays is not just a tradition, it’s nearly a religious ritual. That may be on hold this year, though. The start of California’s crab season has been delayed due to the presence of an algae that produces a potentially serious toxin. The state is taking weekly samplings to monitor the situation, but the commercial crabbing season that was scheduled to start this week has already been pushed back.

Beer to the rescue

That’s the kind of news that is enough to drive you to drink. And if you’re going to do that, why not drink your own home-brewed beer? (How’s that for a smooth segue?) Ace beer columnist John Verive says making your own beer at home is easier than you might think. Kits are available at some local wine and beer shops that will get you started for less than $60. At least it’s something to do while you’re waiting for crabs.

A comforting read

Here’s another alternative – from someone who knows about dealing with this kind of dire adversity. Former Gourmet magazine editor (and way before that, Los Angeles Times food editor and restaurant critic) Ruth Reichl spent the year after the closing of her beloved magazine cooking in her home kitchen. And then she wrote a book about it -- "My Kitchen Year: 136 Recipes That Saved My Life." Amy Scattergood reviews the book, and there are recipes!

New shopping downtown

The big news downtown is that the giant new Whole Foods has finally opened. It’s not the first grocery downtown, nor is it the biggest, but it’s a Whole Foods, and to the rapidly growing population of the area, that means something. The store is more than 40,000 square feet and includes all the usual features, but also a to-go branch of Roy Choi’s Chego restaurant and a vinyl listening area. “At the risk of sounding ridiculous," said one happy shopper, "I think this new Whole Foods is going to change my life.” Both S. Irene Virbila and I check out the new Whole Foods.

More dates

It’s been one of the hottest falls in memory, but that’s a good thing for dates. Not the romantic kind, but the kind that grow on palm trees. Sweet, syrupy and luscious like you can’t find anyplace else. We’ve got pointers on how to choose among the different varieties and a dozen recipes for using them. We may not have Dungeness crab this year, but we sure do have some great dates.

Warm sticky toffee cake
(Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times)

Kirk McKoy / Los Angeles Times

Check out the thousands of recipes on our Recipe Database

Feedback?

We’d love hear from you. Email us at food@latimes.com

Are you a food geek? Follow me on Twitter @russ_parsons1

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