The Gossiping Gourmet: Skyloft still working out the kinks

Skyloft, the new restaurant on the floor above Tommy Bahama in the historic Heisler building in a Laguna Beach, is aptly named. In addition to the large restaurant is a roof deck with a bar and tables, providing lovely views of the ocean.

On the main floor are two dining areas, one smaller and perhaps quieter. In the other, guests can dine in the large central bar area or at a table. At one end of the room, a low bandstand is positioned to provide frequent live entertainment. On a recent visit, the decibel level was pretty high.

My dining companion and I sat in the smaller dining room and found it pleasant. The menu is the same at lunch and dinner. We began with a stuffed avocado half. The avocado had been fried in tempura batter, garnished with small shrimp and little crawfish tails and then topped with roasted sweet corn relish and Cajun aioli.

It was just delicious. The smooth and creamy avocado was countered by the crispy tempura that covered it. In keeping with the Cajun theme were the shrimp and crawfish bits and the sweet corn relish. The Cajun aioli provided just the right amount of spiciness.

I was delighted with my entrée, which was a jambalaya full of goodies that included clams, crawfish tails, chicken andouiile sausage, shrimp and roasted pasilla peppers, all tossed in a Cajun Creole cream sauce with linguini noodles. There was also the option of jasmine or brown rice instead of the pasta. I would come back for this in a flash. So good!

My dining companion tried the garden medley pasta, and it too was very good. The pasta was whole wheat penne topped with roasted Roma tomatoes with grilled zucchini, carrots, cremini mushrooms and smoked peppers in a light white wine sauce, all topped with fresh basil and a generous sprinkling of Parmesan and feta cheese.

We also had a very decadent and delicious dessert — a flourless dark chocolate cake. The cake was really a little pyramid of dark, dark chocolate topped with crème fresh and fresh mint. It was intense and irresistible.

Because the restaurant was so new, we felt we needed to try it again, so we went in the early evening several days later. Our second visit was somewhat different. Certain problems arose that reflected the newness of the restaurant and the staff.

Our appetizers were very good. I ordered the calamari, which consisted of battered rings with a light bit of spice in the background. The rings were a little rubbery but still quite tasty. There was a thin, rich sauce on the bottom of the dish, but the rings on the bottom got soaked in the sauce, spoiling the crunchiness of the coating.

We also tried the corn chowder with bits of potato, bacon, roasted mild green chilies and fresh roasted corn in a rich and creamy soup, with just the slightest hint of heat.

Unfortunately, my entrée, fish and chips, came while I was still eating the calamari. Also the chips were room temperature. The wait staff did take them back and bring me a new hot order, but my dining companion’s beef brisket was also room temperature. I would say skip the fish and chips. The fish was bland and the crust had an oily aftertaste.

The certified Angus beef brisket would have been very good if it was hot. It made a delicious hot sandwich the next day. The sides that came with it were both good — creamed corn and smashed sweet potatoes

Our waitress recommended the New York-style lemon curd cheesecake, and it was a winner. The subtle taste of lemon permeated the rich, dense, creamy cake.

My recommendation is to try all the Cajun dishes first. They were uniformly good. There are some kinks in the service and the food that still need to be worked out.

TERRY MARKOWITZ was in the gourmet food and catering business for 20 years. She can be reached for comments or questions at m_markowitz@cox.net.

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SKYLOFT

Location: 422 S. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach

Hours: 11 to 1 a.m. daily

Prices:

Appetizers: $10 to $14.50

Entrees: $10 to $36

Desserts: $5.50 to $10

WINE

Bottles: $22 to $265

By the glass: $ 6 to $16

Corkage: $15

Information: (949) 715-1550 or skyloftoc.com