Serbian sights

GETTING THERE:

From LAX, connecting service (change of planes) is offered on Lufthansa, British, American, Air France, Swiss and United. Restricted round-trip fares begin at $1,580. In the city, taxis and trams are plentiful and cheap.

TELEPHONES:

To call the numbers below from the U.S., dial 011 (the international dialing code), 381 (country code for Serbia) and the local number.

WHERE TO STAY:

Hotel Moskva, 1 Balkanska; 11-2686-255, www.hotelmoskva.co.yu, is an Art Nouveau landmark at the foot of Belgrade’s main pedestrian walkway, with 132 clean, old-fashioned rooms faintly echoing grander times; doubles $144, including breakfast.

Balkan Hotel, 2 Prizrenska; 11-3636-000, www.balkanhotel.com, is a recently privatized and renovated hotel across the street from the Moskva with an especially stylish restaurant and bar. Doubles from $144, including breakfast.

Le Petit Piaf, 34 Skadarska; 11-3035-252, www.petitpiaf.com, is a small boutique hotel with contemporary furnishings on a picturesque street in the old city. Doubles from $174, including breakfast.

WHERE TO EAT: Tri Sesira, 29 Skadarska 29; 11-3247-501, and Dva Jelena, 32 Skadarska; 11-3234-885, are two pleasant, old-fashioned eateries on Skadarska street with grilled meats, Balkan wines and gypsy bands; at both restaurants, a three-course dinner with wine is about $10.

Stara Koliba, 11-3117-444, is a splavovi, or floating restaurant, near the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers; fish dinner with wine about $10.

Orient Express in the Balkan Hotel (above) serves excellent continental fare and cocktails; entrees $5-$10.

TO LEARN MORE: Serbia doesn’t have a tourist information office in the U.S. The National Tourist Organization of Serbia has its headquarters at 8 Deeanska, Belgrade; 11-3342-521, vwww.serbia-tourism.org.

The Tourist Organization of Belgrade, 1 Deeanska, Belgrade; 11-3248-404, www.tob.co.yu, also has an information office in the subterranean shopping gallery near Terazije and Kneza Mihaila; 11-635-622.

-- Susan Spano