Beyond vindaloo

The cuisine of Goa: It’s the great, undiscovered regional Indian cooking -- because it’s not a restaurant cuisine.

Maybe your curiosity has been piqued by references to “Goan spices” popping up on menus in trendy restaurants. Or maybe you’ve seen a mention of Goan vindaloo or Goan prawn curry at a northern Indian restaurant. But although more Goans live in Southern California than in any other part of the United States, there are no Goan restaurants here.

Goa, a small state on India’s western coast, is famous for its gorgeous beaches, but it also boasts a fascinating fusion cuisine developed during 4 1/2 centuries of Portuguese occupation. Goan dishes -- curries, stews, chutneys and desserts that combine Latin and Asian influences -- appeal to a contemporary taste for assertive seasoning and intriguing spices but have evolved over centuries.

Goan cooking centers on meat and seafood flavored with fragrant and pungent spices: chiles, turmeric, fenugreek, cumin, asafetida, saffron and tamarind, often combined with onions and vinegar. Portuguese ingredients (such as sausage) and Portuguese preparations (such as soups) are combined with tropical ingredients such as coconut, cashews and mangoes. Finally, the cuisine absorbed Asian, African, European, Arab and Brazilian influences because of the country’s position as a crossroads of trade routes.

Goan cuisine reaches its heights in home kitchens. Even in Goa, it is not restaurant cuisine. Catering schools train young Goans in the Continental and Punjabi dishes they are most likely to prepare on the job, says restaurateur Addi Decosta of Addi’s Tandoor in Redondo Beach, who is from Goa. Resort food is tailored to please weekenders from Mumbai (Bombay), the nearest major city, and overseas tourists arriving on charter flights. “Tourists who want Goan food eat at shacks on the beach,” he says.

In Redondo Beach, Decosta has added a few Goan dishes to his northern Indian menu. These include shrimp cooked with coconut and red or green masalas and vindaloo -- not the bastardized, fiery version of this dish that is served in almost every Indian restaurant, but one that’s seasoned Goan-style, with red chiles, fragrant spices and vinegar. Decosta’s green masala also has a sharp vinegar tang.

In The Times’ test kitchen, Decosta prepared his shrimp masala. The dish’s distinctive, full-bodied sauce is made by mixing spices into a base of onion “gravy” created from 16 cups of chopped white onions that are reduced, then pureed.

We sampled other Goan dishes when Rose Nair and her sister, Nalini Viegas, brought together friends at Viegas’ home in Anaheim Hills.

A tray of appetizers featured shrimp podi, tiny rounds of ground shrimp and coconut seasoned with cilantro, chiles and garlic. Another finger food was potato chops: golden-brown pan-fried mashed potato cakes filled with spiced ground beef made by Huntington Beach resident Margaret De Sa, who shared her recipe.

Classic Goan dishes served at the party included sorpatel (a pork and liver stew), and xacuti, a spicy stew that is thought to have originated with nomadic Muslim herders because it was first made with goat meat but today is also made with lamb, beef and chicken. At the dessert table, we sampled Anne Dos Santos’ baath, a coconut and farina cake flavored with rose water; and Edison De Sa’s bebinca, a multilayered cake that’s extremely difficult to make, scented with nutmeg and resembling a many-tiered pudding.

Nair and Viegas contributed several dishes to the buffet: a shrimp-mango curry, anchovies with spices and chiles, clams with a coconut and chile masala and a showy dish known as beef rolls, for which they shared their recipe. Wrapped with thin-cut beef, the rolls contain chorizo, hard-boiled egg and a mixture of chopped cilantro, chiles and onion. They make a colorful presentation when sliced and arranged on tomato sauce.

For cooks curious about Goan cuisine, there are some home-grown resources. Isabel de Figueiredo of Irvine has collaborated with her siblings on a book, “Spiced Delicacies: Family Recipes From Goa,” that records recipes of their mother, Alda Ribeiro Colaco, (available for $18 including shipping from www.geocities.com/goancookbook).

De Figueiredo’s brother, Francis X. Colaco of Washington, D.C., wrote the text for the book, which in addition to food covers Goan history and culture. Among the recipes is one for caldo verde, a Portuguese soup of sausage and greens; there are also dishes with Portuguese names but such Indian ingredients as tamarind juice and turmeric. A sauteed pumpkin dish is flavored with garlic, ginger and coconut. Empadinhas, small pork pies, are made with chiles, cumin seeds, garlic, turmeric and other spices ground and mixed with vinegar to form a paste. “Goan cooking keeps morphing and changing,” says De Figueiredo. “In our book, we have tried to go back to the sources.”

Gambling on a broader audience for Goan food, Anthony Furtado of West Covina has launched an Internet site selling home-style products (www.goacom.com/goanfoods). His line, Essence of Goa, includes pork sausages, reichada masala (a masala of dried red chiles ground with vinegar and seasonings), a variety of pickles and some cooked dishes. “I learned this from my grandmother,” says Furtado, who is from Panaji, the capital of Goa.

De Figueiredo suggests that non-Goans interested in Goan foods “cultivate the friendship of a Goan with a reputation for cooking skills.” Better yet, be invited to a party.

“We like the good life,” says Nair. “We have a lot of fun at parties, a nice singsong -- and games sometimes. And we dance -- we are very fond of the waltz. They’re very relaxed people in Goa. It’s always the beach and a party at home. For everything, there is a party at home.”

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Shrimp masala

Total time: 1 hour

Servings: 4

Note: From Addi Decosta of Addi’s Tandoor in Redondo Beach. Packaged Kashmiri mirch (Kashmiri chile powder), ajowan seeds and grated coconut powder are available in most Indian markets.

4 tablespoons oil, divided

4 large white onions, coarsely chopped (about 16 cups)

3 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1/4 teaspoon ajowan seeds

2 tablespoons ground coriander

2 tablespoons ground cumin

1 tablespoon turmeric

1 teaspoon Kashmiri chile powder, or more, to taste

1/2 cup coconut milk

1/2 cup canned tomato puree

2 tablespoons grated coconut powder

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground white pepper

32 large black tiger shrimp (about 16-20 to a pound), peeled

1/2 cup chopped cilantro leaves

1. Make an onion puree by heating 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large pan over medium heat, adding the onions and cooking until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Cool slightly, then place in a blender or food processor and puree until smooth. Set aside.

2. Heat a heavy pan. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, the garlic, cumin seeds and ajowan seeds and cook until lightly browned, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the onion puree, ground coriander, ground cumin, turmeric and chile powder and cook until bubbling. Add the coconut milk, tomato puree, grated coconut powder, salt and pepper.

3. Cook 5 minutes, then add the shrimp and cilantro. Cook 7 to 10 minutes, or until the shrimp are cooked through. Add salt and pepper to taste.

4. Serve in a medium bowl, garnished with a sprig of cilantro and a sprinkle of grated coconut powder on top. Accompany with steamed basmati rice.

Each serving: 549 calories; 51 grams protein; 26 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams fiber; 27 grams fat; 10 grams saturated fat; 345 mg. cholesterol; 1,536 mg. sodium.

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Beef rolls

Total time: 1 hour, 45 minutes

Servings: 6

Note: This dish of pounded steaks rolled around a spicy sausage filling is one that Rose Nair and her sister Nalini Viegas make for special occasions.

Steak

4 ( 1/2-pound) Milanesa steaks (also called “beef round-tip steaks, cap off”)

1. Pound the steaks to flatten them into pieces about one-fourth-inch thick. Form the casings for 2 rolls by laying the steaks flat in pairs, slightly overlapping. Set aside.

Chile paste

5 dried red chiles, or 1 tablespoon paprika combined with 1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

12 cloves garlic

1 (1-inch) piece of ginger root, peeled and roughly chopped

1/4 cup white vinegar

1 teaspoon salt

1. Stem the chiles. In a food processor, grind the chiles, garlic, ginger, vinegar and salt to make a paste. Divide the mixture into two parts. Set aside.

Filling

1 1/2 cups finely chopped white onion

1 serrano chile, seeded and chopped fine

1/2 cup chopped cilantro

3 tablespoons lime juice

Dash salt

Half of the chile paste

3 hard-cooked eggs, quartered

6 ounces chorizo, casing removed

1. Place the onion, chile and cilantro in a bowl. Add the lime juice and salt and stir.

2. Spread the chile paste on one side of the steaks.

3. Spread the onion-cilantro mixture in a line lengthwise down the center of each pair of steaks. Place the quartered eggs and chorizo on top.

4. Roll the steaks tightly around the filling, tucking in the ends. Secure with thread or toothpicks. Set aside while making the sauce.

Sauce

3 tablespoons oil

1 1/2cups onion, chopped

1 (3-inch) piece cinnamon stick

6 whole cloves

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 large tomatoes, diced (about 2 cups)

Half of the chile paste

1. For the sauce, heat the oil in a 12-inch skillet. Add the onion, cinnamon, cloves and cumin seeds and cook 2 minutes on medium heat. Add the tomatoes and cook until soft. Stir in the reserved chile paste.

2. Place the beef rolls in the pan and cook 5 minutes. Add 1 cup water and bring to a boil. Lower the heat, cover and simmer until the meat is tender, about 45 minutes. This will allow the chorizo to cook completely.

3. Lift the rolls from the sauce and let cool slightly. To serve, slice into rounds. Spoon the sauce onto a flat serving dish and arrange the slices on top.

Each serving: 548 calories; 45 grams protein; 25 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 30 grams fat; 9 grams saturated fat; 223 mg. cholesterol; 863 mg. sodium.

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Potato chops

Total time: 1 hour, 20 minutes

Servings: 4 to 6 (makes 18-24 chops)

Note: At a Goan party, you’re likely to be served potato chops as an appetizer. This version is from Margaret De Sa of Huntington Beach.

6 pounds russet potatoes

Salt, pepper

1/4 teaspoon plus one dash turmeric, divided

1 1/2 cups finely chopped onion

1 tablespoon plus 1/2 cup oil, divided

1 teaspoon chopped garlic

1 teaspoon chopped ginger

1 pound lean ground beef

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 tablespoon white vinegar

1 serrano chile, seeded and finely chopped

1/2 bunch cilantro leaves, finely chopped

1/2 tablespoon mint leaves, finely chopped

1 teaspoon lime juice

1 egg, lightly beaten

1 cup fine dry bread crumbs

1. Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add 1 tablespoon of salt and the potatoes. Cook until tender, about 40 minutes. Let cool slightly, then peel and mash the potatoes until smooth. Season with one-half teaspoon of salt and a dash each of pepper and turmeric. Set aside.

2. Cook the onion in 1 tablespoon of oil in a saucepan until soft, about 10 minutes. While the onion is cooking, use the side of a knife to mash first the chopped garlic and then the chopped ginger into paste by pressing against a cutting board until soft. Add the garlic and ginger pastes to the pan and cook for 1 minute.

3. Season the ground beef with salt, add it to the pan and cook until browned and crumbled. Add one-fourth teaspoon of pepper, one-fourth teaspoon of turmeric, the cumin, cloves and cinnamon. Stir until the spices are well blended with the meat. Add the vinegar, chile, cilantro and mint and stir. Cover and cook over medium heat for about 15 minutes; drain excess fat. Stir in the lime juice and additional salt to taste.

4. Shape the potatoes into 3-inch balls. Form each ball into a cup. Place 1 tablespoon of the beef mixture in each cup and enclose completely with potato. Flatten to form round cakes or “chops.” Brush each potato chop with egg and lightly coat with bread crumbs.

5. Heat one-half cup of oil in a shallow skillet. Add the potato chops and fry until golden brown, about 2 minutes per side. Remove to paper towels to drain and then arrange on a serving platter.

Each serving: 166 calories; 7 grams protein; 24 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 5 grams fat; 1 gram saturated fat; 16 mg. cholesterol; 60 mg. sodium.