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Mulberries: How to choose, store and prepare

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Not so long ago, these little gems (think of what you can only dream of a blackberry tasting like) were so scarce that they were sold like contraband. Celebrity pastry chefs practically stalked the few farmers who had them. Mulberries have been a little more plentiful recently, though if you want them you certainly have to get to the farmers market early and know whom to ask. But with mulberries, the hunt is part of the savor.

How to choose: Mulberries should be slightly firm, deeply colored and fragrant.

How to store: Because they are so fragile, mulberries should be refrigerated as soon as possible.

How to prepare: Mulberries are such a special treat that when you get them, you should prepare them just as simply as possible--lightly sugared and folded into a little whipped cream is perfect.

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