Zeke’s Smokehouse, the Montrose barbecue restaurant with...

Zeke’s Smokehouse, the Montrose barbecue restaurant with a new location in West Hollywood, makes its own punchy versions of three classic American barbecue sauces. Longhorn, the Texan, is equally sweet and sour and moderately hot. Doggone Good is sweeter, in the Kansas City manner, with a mellow molasses note and a bracing dash of cloves in the finish.

But we went wild over Back Porch, a tart orange-brown South Carolina-style sauce with a lively mustard bite. It’s irresistible, and not just on barbecued meats -- we’ve slathered it on sandwiches, dipped grilled vegetables in it, even drizzled it on a salad.

Zeke’s BBQ Sauces, $3.95, available at Zeke’s Smokehouse, 2209 Honolulu Ave., Montrose, (818) 957-7045, and 7100 Santa Monica Blvd., West Hollywood, (323) 850-9353, or e-mail an order to jgregory @zekessmoke house.com.

-- Charles Perry