2002 Radio-Coteau Timbervine Russian River Valley Syrah

What a beautiful mouthful! This wonderfully complex Syrah from winegrower Eric Sussman and Radio-Coteau channels the northern Rhone in every nuance. Deep ruby and wildly aromatic, it packs masses of vivid fruit -- mostly blackberries and blueberries. The grapes come from a steep vineyard on the slopes of Black Mountain in the Russian River Valley. The cool climate there produces a wine with a long lingering finish of spice and smoke.

Radio-Coteau’s lush 2002 Pinot Noir from the Hellenthal vineyard on the Sonoma Coast is a killer, too. Look for both of these wines on local restaurant wine lists, or order directly from the winery.

Radio-Coteau it should be explained, is a colloquial expression from France’s Rhone Valley that means “broadcasting from the hills,” or word of mouth. And that’s just how Sussman’s wine has found its audience.

--S. Irene Virbila

*

Quick swirl

Region: Sonoma

Price: $40

Style: Full-bodied and complex

Food it goes with: Grilled and braised meats, wild game and duck or pigeon

Where you find it: Available by mail directly from the winery. Order at www.radiocoteau.com or by phone at (707) 887-8335.