For your next fresh soba noodle fix, head to Mimimyunga in Koreatown

Name of restaurant: Mimimyunga, the Korean pronunciation of four Chinese characters that translate to “house of noodles with beautiful taste.” (Linguistically, it is more or less equivalent to San Gabriel’s Tasty Noodle House.)

The concept: A Japanese-style kakesoba restaurant specializing in fresh soba noodles served in broth. You can get your noodles hot or cold, with a wide variety of toppings, including beef, sweet shrimp, mackerel, mountain yam or a handsome selection of tempura. You can also supplement your noodles with Japanese appetizers, donburi or roll sushi.

The restaurant is on the third floor of the California Market building, across the way from the recently opened Square Mixx food court. It’s a little hard to find, even if you’re looking, accessible by stairs or elevator from the California Market garage.

The story: This is the first stateside outpost of a popular Korean mini-chain. The original location, in the fashionable Garosu-gil in South Korea, has generated long lines and steady acclaim since opening in 2012. Restaurateurs Chris Wonbo Kim and Joonhyun Paek brought Mimimyunga to Koreatown, where it’s been operating since mid-October 2017, with Kim, Eden Lim and Soojin Lim overseeing the menu and running the kitchen.

What you should eat: The noodles, of course. Mimimyunga churns out some of the best soba you can get in this city, and certainly between Little Osaka and Little Tokyo. It’s fresh and slippery, with a satisfying bite. For optimal texture, the cold broth is the way to go. Toppings are heavily customizable and all quite good. Sweet shrimp and uni are a sure thing, as are grilled mackerel and thin-sliced beef. The tempura is all fantastic, whether fishcake, burdock root, shrimp or eel. Every bowl comes with half a soft-boiled egg, but consider ordering a whole one on top. It’s soft and supple with a bright, creamy, orange-yellow yolk.

Pro tip: The portions aren’t dainty, but if you’re feeling famished, you can ask for additional servings of noodles to go with your broth. The first refill is on the house. The second, should you need it, is just $2.

Where you are: Mimiyunga is the most attractive business in the complex, with a casual dining room decked out in smooth blond wood. Floor-to-ceiling windows let in plenty of natural light, and there’s some patio seating as well. You order at the register and seat yourself. Service is informal and friendly.

Who else is there: A steady stream of Korean and Korean American diners getting their fix of soba. The hidden location means no one finds this place without being told, but it has developed a strong Koreatown following.

Uh-oh: This is a specialty shop, so the other items aren’t quite on par with the soba. The donburi and sushi aren’t tragic, but they’re less consistent and noteworthy than the noodles.

What you’re drinking: There isn’t any alcohol, but you can get hot tea or grab one of the sodas or assorted Asian soft drinks from the mini fridge next to the register.

Appropriate for: Lunch or a casual, booze-free dinner. It’s open every day from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., so head over whenever you’re in the mood for soba.

Info: 450 S. Western Ave., (on the third floor), Koreatown, (213) 389-3464, mimimyunga.com

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