Paris Fashion Week: At Yves Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati’s holy rollers
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At Yves Saint Laurent, designer Stefano Pilati had the right instinct to clean up and pare down, with a collection in nearly all black and white. But the sum total of the black caplets, crisp white shirts with clerical-looking collars, and floppy black hats that hugged the face almost like veils made me wonder whether he had watched too many reruns of ‘The Flying Nun.’ (Do they even rerun ‘The Flying Nun’?)
No doubt Pilati was thinking about ease of dressing, simplicity as luxury, and creating a uniform for a woman’s life. But the styling was a distraction, particularly long chain necklaces strung not with crosses, but with chicly dressed female figures. (Pilati’s icons perhaps?)
Where was the sex appeal and where was the joy? His take on the sisters of perpetual mercy neglected that part of the equation entirely.
-- Booth Moore in Paris