Road trip: the Hungry Cat in Santa Barbara

This article was originally on a blog post platform and may be missing photos, graphics or links. See About archive blog posts.

I’d been meaning to check out the Santa Barbara branch of The Hungry Cat ever since it opened, about three months ago, if only to get off my well-beaten track from downtown to Sunset & Vine. And lo, chef-owner David Lentz was standing by the door when my friend and I walked in -- as were about six other people who had been loitering around the front, waiting for the place to open. Lentz seemed to be loitering himself, rather than cooking -- just chatting with guests and occasionally polishing the plates as they went out from the kitchen. But maybe he needed the break: With two restaurants and two new babies, he’s got his hands full these days.

So what’s on the menu? Boquerones on house-made flatbread (grilled on the wood-burning grill in the tiny open kitchen) with caramelized onions, arugula, fennel and olives. Grilled scallops with braised oxtail and curried cauliflower. Oysters on the half-shell and peel ‘n’ eat shrimp, of course. And an amazing bowl of braised clams and chorizo, also house-made, with grilled bread topped with a dab of aioli. It turns out that both Hungry Cats make their own chorizo, using a different recipe at each restaurant. Lentz said he gives the chefs at both places ‘the freedom to play with it.’ He also said they make their own bacon at the Hollywood branch. ‘The reason we’re doing it all ourselves is quality -- and also it’s fun.’ It’s pretty fun to eat too.

The Hungry Cat, 1134 Chapala St., Santa Barbara; (805) 884-4701; 1535 N. Vine St., Los Angeles; (323) 462-2155.

-- Amy Scattergood